I see what you did there.
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Hello Simon,
Thanks for the additional details. I do almost all my honing freehand and over the entire bevel. Where I was mystified over the notion of a freehand microbevel was the challenge of keeping it consistent throughout the grit progression. I gather from this thread two different approaches. Rob Cosman's is to create one microbevel at 1000 and a second higher one at his finishing stone (15000 I think). The other approach sounds to be along the lines of introducing a single microbevel on the final stone. I'll give both methods a try and see how it goes.
I've been finding this thread informative.
Edwin
"Christopher,
I have many LN planes, some unmarked and some with their name. I wouldn't bet the house on it, but I believe the unmarked blades are O1 and the marked (newer) blades are A2. Maybe someone else can definitively confirm."
Stephen, thanks for the reply. I've inferred the same and am hoping someone will confirm.
Deleted offending posts and references to them.
Another reminder: play nice here. Don't call into question someone's ability or be unnecessarily provocative.
Limit further posts to this thread to the novel topic at hand: sharpening; don't try to have the last word on civility or political correctness here.
You are correct: LN irons with no markings are O1, the ones marked are A2.
Excellent, thanks Phil.
Best,
Chris
I’ve had the opposite experience, the marked ones are O1, unmarked are A2. Mine are maybe 2010-2012 vintage.
Just to clarify: for plane irons, no markings at all means O1, marked with Lie Nielsen means A2
For chisels: marked with Lie Nielsen only, A2, marked with Lie Nielsen O1, obviously O1
It is possible to get A2 sharp, but I still don't like it. Here's a shaving taken by an iron that someone on another forums sent me to figure out what his problem with it was. He was trying to sharpen it to some sharp angle less than 25 degrees. I don't remember what wood this was. It was the edge of some board close at hand that day.
Here’s one I’ve got;
https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/...2/img_2574.jpg
Have not seen one of those: I believe they were re-introduced for a short time after they introduced the A2 blades, and received
requests for the "old" irons. You may have a collectors item there:)
I have a couple of unmarked LN blades. I cannot conclusively state what they are, but I know at least one is W1.
These religeous wars on sharpening really miss the mark, in my opinion. It is less important to be "sharpest" and more important to be "reliably sharp". Speed in achieving this is also relevant. Do whatever you want to get a working tool. Do whatever you want as long as it is comfortable for you and does not make you wish to avoid the process. Do I need to remind all that it is the use of the tool that constitutes woodworking?
Regards from Perth
Derek
That 1 statement alone reflects the conundrum that now faces woodworkers using A2 steel for their chisels and planes. You have on 1 side a recommendation that suggests that a higher bevel angle (above traditional practice) is required with A2 steel to avoid micro chipping, and on the other side a suggestion that there are no issues with micro chipping at a lower bevel angle with A2 steel, and that its you the user that is at fault if you experience this phenomena. I shall say nothing more than refer you to an article that was written by Rob Stoakley from Axminster back in 2014. https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/o1...el-is-for-you/
Stewie;