Thanks Derek.
Printable View
In addition to my previous comments, this is a good example of where I personally like to use the pigtail method. With the machine "that far" from the actual receptacle, using a pigtail gives you a 100% positive disconnect right at the machine and also allows you to get a long cord out of the way easily should there be a need to do so. You can "right-size" the cord, too...not too long and not too short. I use the pigtail method for most of my machines.
I can't decide if I like the pigtail idea or not. I can see it being advantageous to having the tool be cord free if need be, but the idea of a second connection in the line vs just one long cord adds a little bit of worry of voltage drop or something damaging the motor. If I had several machines with the pigtails I could see the advantage outweighing the worry.
Minor nit but full load current on a 2HP single phase motor is much higher than 6A. Typical motors can be up to 12A. 12 or 14 gauge cords will handle the full load current but during startup the current will be much higher, typically a 6x multiple, but could by higher. Each plug/receptacle adds some contact resistance; the amount will depend on the age and wear on the receptacle. 20 ft of 12 AWG is probably fine but 10 AWG gives a little extra margin if the machine is a long way from the breaker.
I looked at the box and cord yesterday, 14AWG and stiff as a board PVC cord bent into a Z accordion. The plastic box has a press fit cheap strain relief there's no nut and the hole looks pretty small. Fortunately there's the long steel pole the on/off switch/box is screwed to. I'm going to mount a steel electrical box on the back side lower down. Cut the existing cord short and plumb it into the steel box. I'll either install a 10/3 220 twist lock outlet in the box and make up an extension cord or wire a long cord to the box directly. Kind of like the idea of being able to remove the cord and hang on a wall. The rear mount for the lifting hook would also be a good spot to bolt on a U to hang the cord on.
Don't forget you need a male twist lock at the machine end unless you really want to do a non-standard implementation that could be dangerous if the cord is plugged into the wall and disconnected from the saw. Those prongs would be, um...uncomfortable...to touch. ;)
I have a 10/3 cord on my 250amp Lincoln MIG welder... it is a lot of bulk and weight to move around, not flexible and kind of a pain in the rear. I would highly recommend going with a 12/3 cord which will be way overkill in itself. No need at all to go with a 10/3 for a 2hp motor! Grizzly would not have put a 14g cord on the jointer if it wasn't big enough to handle the current of the 2hp motor.