Obviously, if you HAVE a press you’re going to use it. It’s not a very common tool for a wood shop. Bearing pullers are a lot more common, smaller, and cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike stenson
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Obviously, if you HAVE a press you’re going to use it. It’s not a very common tool for a wood shop. Bearing pullers are a lot more common, smaller, and cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike stenson
A hydraulic press is such a good tool that there are multiple you tube channels of using them to bend and crush things for fun and profit?
Bil lD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35OBfk1F8Ps
That video was a toy model of what happened in an instant with the collapse of the WTC, but with much more violence and speed. :-(Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
They're not terribly expensive, but I was referring to the OPs decision to go use his friends press. It's a smart move and makes the job pretty trivial.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Day
I use my press for gluing segmented bowls. The cheap Harbor Freight ones don't have a pressure gauge but the slightly more expensive ones do. Once you have one you start to collect short pieces of pipe in different diameters and other things to remove and install things like bearings. Also you will end up with steel arbor plates which work well for supporting the underside of the wood and to spread out the force on top of the wood. If you will never use it again it doesn't make sense but they don't take up much room and if money isn't too tight they can be a nice asset to have.
Though a common enough tool for most well equipped garages. Bearing and gear pullers are also common in any well equipped garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Day
New bearings arrived today and they slid right up to the old bearings without any force.
Should new ones be this loose? Maybe the arbor has a slightly larger diameter where the bearings sit? (I havenÂ’t taken the old ones in to be pulled off yet).
The new ones (WJB 5204 2RS) are sized the same as the ones on the arbor (Fafnir W2O4PP), which is 20mm ID, 47mm OD.
IDK...maybe IÂ’m just looking for something to go wrong at this point
Shaft is normally a tad smaller up to the boss where the bearing sits. Reduces need for accurate finish in the middle saving time and money. Shaft may well be english size were the pulley sits or at arbor. ball bearing inner bore will be metric if it was made after the great war and likely any ball bearing will be metric outer diameter regardless of age.
I am not aware of any ball bearing ever being made with english outer race sizes. It is bizarre at my local ace hardware they have cabinets with a few ball bearings in with specialty hardware. But they list the size in english units so they re like 1.259" instead of say 30mm. No mention of the true metric measurements anywhere. Ball bearing have been made to metric dimensions since their modern invention around 1860 in Metric France. I do not know if you can get really accurate single english balls by themselves. You can buy super accurate ground metric balls made for high precision bearings.
Bill D
Okay, that makes sense. Thanks for the reply
I know this is an old thread, but I have the same arbor shaft. Is the nut holding the pullies on reverse threaded? Mine is stuck and I'm about to resort to extreme measures to get it off. Shaft rotation tells me it should be reverse, but it's not mentioned in the manual.
On a saw arbor AFAIK all the threads are left handed. Don't be afraid to use a little heat to break the things apart. Keep it under 400 degrees so no temper is affected.The worst you can do is burn up the seals in the bad bearings you are going to replace.
Bill D.
Save the old bearing to use to push on the new. Grind down the outer race by a few 1/1000's then take them apart. Heat the inner race to red hot and let cool slowly. Drill the bore one size larger.
Bill D