Thanks for all the knowledge and replies. All of this is very helpful.
Thanks for all the knowledge and replies. All of this is very helpful.
I would not use acetone to clean up the joint. It can wick into the wood too well, meaning you risk a stain as it carries some epoxy into the wood . Just use a putty knife or wait until it dries and chisel; sand it.
I would clamp. The adhesive takes up Additional space in the mortise and also serves as a gasket to slow air at the bottom from escaping as the tenon is inserted. As the air compressed at the bottom of the mortise, it can push your tenon out a little. So use a clamp.
I use T-88 from SystemThree for long open time projects. Especially for doweling. I have had several near disasters with Titebond II when I did not drill the holes deep enough and the joint would not close. Once the fluted dowels swell up from the glue they are vary hard to remove. I like to mix the T88 with walnut sawdust to fill knot holes and flaws in a walnut board. Epoxy is sloppy and gets on everything. T88 says it is stainable. It sands off better than pva glues without blocking the stain.
It has a higher temperature rating than Titebond so I will be using it on a commission job to make custom pine and hickory heat vents.
Best of luck with the doors.
My opinion on epoxy is if you are re-gluing something that has been glued before epoxy is the right glue. It's better for non-porous applications. On new well fitted wood parts a PVA glue is the right adhesive. Then it's very difficult anymore to buy an epoxy glue that will take hours to dry. You just can't assemble a door in 5 minutes. A 5 minute epoxy would dry up before you could get the door put together. A PVA glue would give you enough open time you can assemble a door and clean up the excess glue before it sets up.
I use alcohol to clean up the mess it creates. I also use a brush to apply the glue when before it starts to thickening (almost like syrup yet) to "wet" the mating surfaces and then let the glue thicken a bit (so that it doesn't run down so easily) and apply it to the joints.
I used it for my entry door glue-up (96"x42"x2.25") with 4 double layer panels and insulation foam between the panels. Used West system. Lots of open time. Still did mine in two stages due to complication of the glue-up.
It wasn't so long ago all epoxy took a long time to dry. Now you have to either order it or go to a specialty shop to get a slow set epoxy. Personally I think that slow set epoxy is stronger than the 5 minute epoxy.
Sure you have to work fast with a PVA glue but even when it starts setting up the clamps will pull the door together. Another adhesive I've used on entry doors is a resin glue. It gives a little more open time but the dried glue isn't as water resistant as the exterior PVA glues they make today.
Actually the worst advice. If there is no squeeze-out, you have a dry joint.
Completely unnecessary.
Note: always prime all glued surfaces with neat resin/hardener mix. End grain and plywood edge grain may take many coats.
WEST also provides an extra slow hardener for increased pot life, particularly for hot weather.