Good question.
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"Take the blade off and spin the top wheel. If the vibration is really that bad, the heavy spot in the wheel will always end up on the bottom. Mark that spot and spin a few more times. If that spot always ends up at the bottom, zip tie a few washers to the top."
Richard, I've already done this, as I said on the first page. I guess this is what I now know as static balancing. Perhaps dynamic balancing would be of more benefit.
My Craftsman/Rikon vibrated like crazy until I noticed the drive belt was coming apart.
Mark
Yes, it can be bolted to the floor. I would not use any type of dampener unless I needed to.Through bolt it through some dense, rubber matting, ie Stall Mat from Tractor supply.
A Hilti or drop in anchor can be used. If you can, use a drop in anchor, it's better, as it's easier to hide when you sell your house. It's not going to hurt the machine to bolt it to the floor. It may not help either, but you have a big bandsaw, and it wouldn't take much to get it dancing around.
Static balancing is what you have been doing. If your wheels are interchangeable, you could just swap one with the other, but that may still leave you with issues.
Have you always this issue with the saw?
Mike, this is an older saw that I've been restoring, for a couple of years. I finally got the time to get it over the line so I just recently got it running.
I'll look now for that rubber matting. Thanks.
Dynamic balancing is done with the wheel off placed onto a machine. The wheel is spun up to some speed and smoke and mirrors figure out where to place weights to get it balanced. used by most tire shops these days. It balances in three axis not just one with gravity.
In theory a wheel shop can do your bandsaw wheel but they have to make it fit their machines hub which is usually too large to fit a small bandsaw wheels center bore. Maybe a bicycle shop?
Biill D.
Warren,
id never heard of dux seal and had to look it up. I would kind of like to add some soundproofing to my bandsaw. I see that dux seal is a putty. How would you apply it? Now I wonder what they use on SS sinks?
Duct seal stiff brush or putty knife.
BilL D
I got duct seal at Menards in the electrical department. Lowes or Home Depot may have it. It's used for sealing up conduit in a box. You just work it with your hands like modeling clay and stuff it in the conduit and mold it around the wires.
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No doubt of huge importance there, but I'd personally see what things were like in regards to alignment,
and be sure of things first, so one could try some tricks with the expensive tires before splashing out...
Tires which might likely be grooved if the same as the Centauro SP, which sounds like this "sheet metal body" saw to me?
Just might be the case of the apex of the camber being nibbled off, so a little tape in the groove might just work.
Though with that said, I'd bet with aligned wheels, one wouldn't have such trouble, and merely experience beam tension issues.
If the changeover to fixed motors were made today from the best in the business, I reckon fixing the tires, even if it may sort things for now,
wouldn't be in anyway seen as a preferable way to do things, even for the busy folks.
Seems those are seemingly happy to have one wheel facing east, and the other wheel facing west?
Aligning wheels not too overcomplicated a concept really,
I've posted things in detail on a recent Centauro thread, and just going to perhaps give some clearer pictures,
if some older pics might get the point across, (even if some changes were made on the CO 600 thread mentioned above)
Right side of the wheel shown earlier, and here's the left of the wheel for ye now! ...
The lines drawn won't meet up in the middle, and if you try splitting the difference between the errors mentioned earlier, or other sequences for that matter..
the 4mm error dependant on where you choose to place the timber will not give a true reading
if the edges of the wheel aren't accurate enough. (if using a scribing beam, i.e spirit level with a pen on the end)
enter someone selling some cheap tat from overseas for bandsaw wheel alignment?... nah, those same companies would rather keep schtum instead! ;)
Attachment 517216Attachment 517217
And pray the motor will be in line if one has a non adjustable flange or face mount....
Better have loose belts to test that.
Not wishing to know, then you might just experience sound bearings working themselves loose in the wheel bores,
especially if you plan of feeding miles of timber through the saw.
Not being able to afford an engineer to fix, I had to bodge things with a sleeve from a toaster, which I was a bit apprehensive about as you can imagine.
Attachment 517218
And sure hoping something like this won't happen some day
Skip to 1:02 if ye ne'r see a bandsaw jump before!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqkpxKWKkME
comes in pugs of two sizes usually,. Its a very thick stringy putty like stuff so you just pull some amount off and press it onto the bandsaw cover. Ordered it one time and came in a can as a brush on, wrong stuff.
Home depot has it Duct Seal DS110 1 lb pug Gardner Bender is the brand
The vibration issue - yes - this thread is about sorting out the vibration issue.
My time to work on the machine is sporadic and I'll update the thread when I have something interesting to contribute.