Project: NYW Shelf Pin Drilling Jig

I needed a little project to do today as I was just plain tired of "cleaning" and rearranging in the shop...something that I've been up to over the entire holiday break. The thread about Norm, mistakes, "bellowing bad words, and so forth reminded me that I've been intending for some time to make Norm's shop-built version of the MEG shelf-pin drilling jig as I'm going to have a big need for it on some upcoming cabinetry projects for the addition. So today was the day! BTW, the "plan" for this project is included as part of Norm's popular "Jigs" episode plan (#0101).

The jig consists of a "body" that has holes indexed so you can use a plunge router to cut the shelf-pin holes cleanly and a fence on the bottom that allows you to adjust the distance from the edge of the workpiece. There is enough room to use loose clamps to fasten the jig to a workpiece or toggle clamps can be incorporated on the alignment fence. (I will likely use the latter once I do some test runs)

The project got started by searching through the scrap for a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to make an 8" wide by 36" long finished piece. Mission accomplished. A quick rip at the table saw to width and then to the MFT for crosscutting. Yes, I could have used the CMS, but decided I'd use as much Festool as possible for this project.

Attachment 54012

There is a bit of layout to do on the basic jig before one begins drilling a lot of holes. This layout is critical so that the jig can be used on both sides of a workpiece and have everything line up perfectly.


Attachment 54013

The first holes to drill are the 1/4" indexing holes that are used when you need to do a longer workpiece. It allows you to use a piece of 1/4" material to lock in the jig as you extend the row of holes.

Attachment 54014

The remaining holes are all 5/8" and are designed to work with a guide bushing (collar) in the base of the plunge router. These were carefully drilled with a Forstner bit...insuring that they were exactly centered on the line and spaced perfectly at 1" on center. (Note, this jig is set up in Imperial measurements, rather than the metric 32mm spacing popular for Euro style cabinets. It would be easy to modify it to suit if you prefer the metric spacing)

Attachment 54015

Finally, 1/4" slots are milled to provide some 1/4" carriage bolts a way to move with the fence that will be on the bottom of the jig during use. Again, I worked at the MFT, employing the OF 1400 router riding on the guide rail. The cuts were clean and no dust was evident after milling the slots. Note that I used some 1/4" MDF scraps under the workpiece to avoid damaging the MFT table top with the router bit.

Attachment 54016

The end result after milling the holes and slots is thus...

Attachment 54017

I then sanded the piece smooth including "breaking the edges".

Attachment 54018

At this point, there is some final marking to do before finishing up. I used a marking knife to score these lines on both ends of the jig and then followed with a sharp pencil to get some graphite down in the cuts. This left a fine line...well, fine enough. ;) The lines extend over the edge of the plywood so that it's easy to line up the fence "down below" when setting up the jig for use.

Attachment 54019

The end result from marking...and the jig is ready for completion...

Attachment 54020

A quick finish with spray shellac "set" the graphite in the markings as well as gave the jig a smooth surface.

Attachment 54021

This will be a very handy tool to have around the shop, both for immediate needs and into the future. Drilling the shelf-pin holes with a high-speed router usually results in cleaner cuts than using a hand-held drill and a plastic guide from "one of those woodworking retailers". All in all, this took little more than an hour of actual work to complete and no "new" expenditures. :)

Looks good, Jim. I noticed you've got the right expression on your face for routing slots. That's very important. ;)

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Originally Posted by Dave Richards

Looks good, Jim. I noticed you've got the right expression on your face for routing slots. That's very important.

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I was going to comment on that, but forgot...it was a "comon' baby" moment... :p

Jim
That is the same basic jig I used for shelf holes in this project.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=16620

I got the idea from the router workshop

One weekend a few years ago I made this an a couple other jigs from that set of shows. Each worked out well for me, but this is the one that I like the most.

Jim, I'm impressed. Nice jig and well made. That's a project I'll have to keep in mind when I make cabinets.

Jim,
That is a great tool...I have a cheap plastic one ...it works. But using a router makes a better hole ....nice jig!

Thanks for the demo and step by step, looks good & should come in real handy.

Very cool Jim. Thanks for the pictorial! . . . OK, I'm making that face as I press the submit button here.

I have been meaning to build that jig for a while myself, but have always ended up being distracted with other chores. Thanks for walking us through the process. I would not have scored the measuring lines and then "backfilled" with graphite. Nice touch. Now mine will be more of a multi-use tool rather than just for one job.

Nice work (As usual) Jim!

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Originally Posted by Rob Diz

I have been meaning to build that jig for a while myself, but have always ended up being distracted with other chores.

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That was my problem...I kept forgetting it was on "the list". New Years Day seemed to be the right time to build something small and it finally got the nod.

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I would not have scored the measuring lines and then "backfilled" with graphite.

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I'm trying to use my marking knife a lot more these days...more accurate...but the lines are difficult to see, especially when you want them to hang around for awhile. Getting something in the "trench" solved that problem.