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Traditional tail vise
So I’m rebuilding my tail vise on my bench. The first time I built it I rushed thru it and just made it work. I found article in fine woodworking that goes thru process fairly well using a inner core screwed to outer frame. So I’m asking is this only way to build it solidly or has the great minds on here know another?
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I used the frame method, made up my own design. There is hardware you can buy and avoid the frame altogether, lots of metal.
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Yes I forgot to mention I have the Lee Valley hardware kit with the screw and rails. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...=1,41637,41659
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Tony,
What issue of Fine Woodworking shows the details on how to build one? Someday I hope to build a nice bench, and that kind of tail vise will be high on my list of wants for the bench.
Thanks and regards,
Stew
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Tony
I have a tail vise on my scandanavian bench a la Taj Frid. Its 30+ years old a nd I use It all the time. However over the years it has started to sag. It is still quite usable but perhaps something with a little more metal in the construct would be an improvement.
I cant complain, I am sagging a bit too
Bill
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With the Lee Valley kit no frame is needed. The opening however is 8” minus the wood jaws so probably a bit less than 6” of opening. My frame design opens a full 13” with no droop, which effectively makes the bench over a foot longer when needed.
Did the Lee Valley vise not come with plans?
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Bill, I bet some simple wedges could reduce your droop! Well one of them anyway!
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https://www.finewoodworking.com/memb...6d3144575a749e
Here the link I found on the install. I’ve had it about 2 years but the problem was original I built just a touch out of square. So when you clamp anything long or cross grain it jumps out of the dogs. So I that why I’m rebuilding it.
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Tony: the Lie Nielsen hardware is excellent, although it is a frame-less tail vise. I've had one on my bench for a couple of years now and no droop issues.
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2 Attachment(s)
William,
Of course you are right, in fact I went down to look and with a couple of brass shims under the back wood runner all is hunky dory again.
Should have done it years ago.Attachment 404244Attachment 404266
Thanks for the motivation guys
Bill
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Stew,
Search for the Scandinavian bench or Klausz bench or Tage Frid.
There is a good article on the Klausz bench in Scott Landis' book, too. That's what I went by.
I thought I built mine pretty well, but its gotten a bit sloppy.
Also, consider the dog hole spacing. I would definitely make them closer together.
If I were doing it over, I'd spring for the quick release tail vise and be done with it.
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FWW #4 has plans for Frid's bench. They are also in Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking Book 3: Furnituremaking. The FWW #4 one has some errors in it; the one in the book has fewer, and is slightly easier to follow. Plans for Klaus's are in Landis's book, and plans plus a detailed narrative are in Oct 2004 Woodworker's Journal. Those used to be on the internet but seem to have disappeared, maybe the Wayback machine has them.
Frid's vise is more complicated than Klaus's, but it might be slightly more shock resistant. Either one should work just fine. I did Frid's bench, as the dimensions fit my space better. I also made my dog holes closer together on my current bench, much easier. I also made them 13/16 so I can easily make dogs out of 3/4 stock.
Attachment 404259
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My tail vise hardware is the small one from Wood Craft. This is my second bench to use this hardware on and I haven't had any problems. If you are wondering about the holes in the side of the tail vise they are dog holes so I can put some small round dogs in. I use then when I clamp long pieces into the shoulder vise the other end on a long board can get whippy. On the bench side I can use a hold fast. Can't use a hold fast on the actual tail vise so short round holes work they are in line with the square dog holes so I can use my finger to push them out when not in use.
Attachment 404267Attachment 404268Attachment 404269
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Thought I would show a couple pictures of the finished bench
Attachment 404270Attachment 404271
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Tony, you could just correct the face angle of the dog if you have square or oblong dog holes. If the face angles 2 degrees down it keeps the work in place.