Originally Posted by
William Fretwell
You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.
My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.
All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
Would a wider U shaped piece that fits around the dog be better, putting all the force on the front face of the dog? The U shape can have a toothed metal edge that is recessed to transmit the force, or a grip material. This U piece would be obviously wider than the dog, providing improved grip. You may need to make two of different depths.
The force on a planing stop can be substantial during serious planing (such as a jack planing to size a board). Clearly dogs have their limitations. My preferred planing stop is a board clamped across the full width of the workbench. Some people have a wide piece on the end of their bench that slides up and is tightened with bolts. The stop across the full width of wood being planed provides the ideal. I find even these full width stops show serious wear and require replacement.