Do any of you guys mark your work with a branding iron?
If so can post your mark?
I am thinking of getting a branding iron for my work.
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Do any of you guys mark your work with a branding iron?
If so can post your mark?
I am thinking of getting a branding iron for my work.
Was a nice gift from my wife.
My future DIL gave me one. I don't see the point of it, and have not used it.
Maybe some day I will appreciate it more...
I don't use one, but a friend of mine does, marking the bottom of bowls and things with his farm brand. He started using one after I helped his daughter make a branding iron for Christmas! I understand they can be expensive to buy but fortunately I had a chunk of bronze, a metal lathe, and a milling machine. I milled the design then used files and Dremel to shape the edge. We could brand six times from one heating with a propane torch.
I think I posted these before, but in case anyone is interested:
Attachment 337833 Attachment 337834 Attachment 337835 Attachment 337836
JKJ
I just have the standard radiused "Handcrafted by" version with my name under it. It works well, but always do some test impressions on scrap of the same wood where your mark will go so you get the "timing" correct. Too little time and it's hard to see and too much can result in a burn mark. It's very hard to put it back in exactly the same place to solve the first issue!
You've got that right, pert near impossible! I did think of a way I want to try but haven't yet: use some double-sided tape to temporarily stick some guides to the piece so the iron would register to the same place the second time. I'm imagining a small rectangular metal frame made from perhaps aluminum angle iron or square rod made so the iron just fits into the opening.Quote:
It's very hard to put it back in exactly the same place to solve the first issue!
JKJ
Different twist - I embed a laser cut 1-1/4" disc in an obscure place. It has my name, logo, and a space for signing that has been laser engraved. Always neat and just requires a shallow forstner cut recess.
I use a branding iron on all my works where it will fit. It is a simple "Handcrafted by" type with a border that came from Rockler. I also embed a penny of the current year with a forstner bit next to the brand so that the owner can identify years later when the item was made. I chose the penny because they aren't worth much and most people won't go to the trouble to take it out for the cash value.
My "branding" solution was a custom rubber stamp. It's cheap, effective, and attractive IMO. It works best when applied prior to the clear coat.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...Shop/002-2.jpg
Hi, I use a branding iron that you heat with a torch.
To illustrate Jim's comment about burning....
Attachment 337883
I have the standard Handcrafted By followed by my name. It was a gift that I didn't use much until as a joke I stamped a cutting board made of scraps and gave it away. Suddenly people that I had gifted cutting boards felt that they were jipped because their board wasn't branded. Now everything gets a brand.
I agree with scott. I have electric branding irons but there are variables that have to be controlled to get good, consistent marks such as temperature, amount of contact time and angle of application. Because everything has to be just right, especially when it's a one-time shot, like scott, I now go with a rubber stamp. Another advantage of a stamp is that the image can be smaller with greater detail and, because it's rubber with a foam backing and not metal, it's much more forgiving regarding application angle and can be applied to reasonably curved surfaces. You only have to be careful it's loaded with the right amount of ink. Also, it's much less expensive.
I don't use a branding iron, I use a soldering type hand held gun with a fine tip and hand sign and date all my pieces. Simple and effective.
Red