Gripper

This issue has been addressed before, but I'm not sure this specific aspect of the issue was addressed.
In order to use the Gripper as a mean of pushing wood through a tablesaw blade, you either need a riving knife on your tablesaw or you need to remove your splitter.
I have a splitter and I would not feel comfortable removing my splitter even for the alleged advantages of the Gripper. I know that the gripper has a splitter add on for a ZCI slot on the tablesaw, but it looks a little flimsy. I'm not sure I would trust it.

Any inputs, suggestions?

Thanks in advance

The gripper splitter is great; I actually prefer it to the riving knife I have now. (except obviously for angled cuts) The expensive one is much more durable and worth the price.
I have a gripper pusher, but haven't used it in years since I got an overhead guard; too much trouble to remove it. So I guess I am agreeing with you; it is more trouble than it is worth.

But I am holding onto it because there are times (which I apparently have not encountered recently) where a gripper just controls well enough to be worth the trouble.

I didn't like the gripper because it looks to me like you have to remove the blade guard to use it. I use a sled most of the time and put the guard back when I'm not using the sled.

Jim,

By sled do you mead cross cutting sled?

I have the Grr-Ripper and I love it but I would think of using anything without a riving knife, or splitter on the saw. If you don't like the Micro Jig version, there are many aftermarket splitters you can add that will work with the Grr-Ripper, just take your pick.

I used the microjig, and it works like a charm. I used this setup in my zero clearance inserts for years till i sold the grizz ts, and got a sawstop. They can be set to either push towards (in thou) the fence or away. Once side will either have a + or a -. If the side has +++ that means it 3 thou to that side. It comes with a simple gig to make the holes line up perfectly. When you don't need the splitter, you can easily pop them out. They make steel versions now, but plastic worked for me for years.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/146...it-Yellow.aspx

Made by same company.

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Originally Posted by Gerry S. Wojtowicz

Jim,

By sled do you mead cross cutting sled?

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Yep, I use mine so much I'm thinking of making a smaller one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gerry S. Wojtowicz

This issue has been addressed before, but I'm not sure this specific aspect of the issue was addressed.
In order to use the Gripper as a mean of pushing wood through a tablesaw blade, you either need a riving knife on your tablesaw or you need to remove your splitter.
I have a splitter and I would not feel comfortable removing my splitter even for the alleged advantages of the Gripper. I know that the gripper has a splitter add on for a ZCI slot on the tablesaw, but it looks a little flimsy. I'm not sure I would trust it.

Any inputs, suggestions?

Thanks in advance

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Use a lower profile splitter. Many commercial or shop made versions to choose from.

Attachment 298930 . Attachment 298931

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gerry S. Wojtowicz

either need a riving knife on your tablesaw or you need to remove your splitter.
I have a splitter and I would not feel comfortable removing my splitter even for the alleged advantages of the Gripper. I know that the gripper has a splitter add on for a ZCI slot on the tablesaw, but it looks a little flimsy. I'm not sure I would trust it.

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You don't technical need a riving knife to use the gripper. Obviously it's better to have one in general but that's a whole other topic independent of the gripper. The same goes for the splitter. It can be off or on while using it. I've taken to people's advice here and got a saw ts with a riving knife.

They recommend that you always pass the gripper over the blade so you have control over both the main piece and cut off piece. Following that advice, yes you can't use a guard or paws.

In my mind it comes down to this - do you want more contact with the wood (gripper) thus more control at the cost of having your hands closer to the blade or do you want less contact with the wood (push stick) less control but hands farther from the blade and guard and paws paws for safety.

Personally I feel more in control using the gripper. I'd venture to guess kickback is a more common cause of injury. Of course, blade injuries can be way more severe even if less common.

I don't think there's data out there favoring one. I'd pick what makes you comfortable as that's probably what's safest for you.

Charles, that's a good way of describing it.

I recently bought both a modern TS with a riving knife and pair of grippers. Prior to that, I had an old Craftsman contractor saw for 30 years and used feather boards and push sticks. The blade guard and splitter was so clumsy that I took it off. For ripping or cutting relatively narrow pieces, I find the grippers to be significantly more safe for me than push sticks and feather boards. Being able to put positive pressure on both sides of the blade give me much more control. Plus, set up is faster.

Before getting grippers, I had a mental no-go zone where I didn't put my fingers. It's a rectangle that has about a 6" buffer around the blade. Grippers give me a little cognitive dissonance over that. I still stand to one side of the blade line in case of kickback. In 30+ years of woodworking, I've never had one but am wary of it.

I have a set of board buddies that I'm going to try out for ripping long stuff. I find the grippers to not be 100% satisfying for that application.

I have the Micro-jig gripper and use it all the time. It would be nice to have another one to use for rip cuts on long boards and work hand over hand. I have an overhead guard also that I use when I can.

One other thing about the gripper is that it is extremely well made, and well thought out American made tool.