I need to create a straight groove from zero to about ˝” and back to zero, a type of recessed handle in the ends of a cutting board. Any ideas?
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I need to create a straight groove from zero to about ˝” and back to zero, a type of recessed handle in the ends of a cutting board. Any ideas?
1" long ... sounds like it could be done with a dado blade on a table saw. Raise the blade into the work piece.
If straight and not curved internally, score the sides and two strokes with a bench chisel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
How long is the groove? What kind of bit are you hoping to use? I picture a groove maybe 8 to 12 inches long with a rounded bottom like you'd get from a gore box bit.
For something like that, you could use a ramped guide for the router. If you do that, I'd cut it in two operations from the center out.
The fabricators used a router to do the drainboard on our soapstone counters using a sloped jig that the router with a guide bushing followed. It allowed the fixed based router to cut a progressively deeper groove across the length of the cut. They used a round nose bit for this, which would be the same as would be used for a cutting board.
I've milled recesses like that by making a router jig. The jig is a swing which holds the router. The tip of the router bit describes an arc -- which is the recess you're describing. I'll post a pic tonight.
You can also use the “speed tenon” approach in a table saw if the groove is open on the end. I would lock down the miter fence so you can focus on handling the board.
Depending on the size you need, you might try running your saw blade up into it, or use a router and a template jig.
Doc
Just to be clear, do you mean a long horizontal groove like a ramp (with straight sides and a flat bottom) in the end of a cutting board starting at zero near one corner and plunging to 1/2" half-way across the board, then reversing the plunge on the other side?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjimin Young
If so, I might make a wedged support (template) for the router to move down, repeat from the other corner, then use a chisel to clean up where the two grooves meet. Might need several passes for clean sides. The stock router base might get in the way in the center if the ramp is steep and the bit short.
Hi John, yes that s the kind of cut I want to make
I'm curious as to what design John comes up with. I wonder if what John has in mind is to turn/face a thin spherical base to attach to the router that would allow it to follow a ramped template with a bushing guide & a long router bit??? From what I've read on this forum I wouldn't put any challenge beyond John.
Frankly, I think Derek's suggestion is a good one using a dado blade, assuming this would be a stopped slot as set up on the TS. The curved entrance/exit would look good on the slot & it would be easy to set up, with good control of the depth of cut using multiple passes if needed.
Like so?
Attachment 380404
I used a fluting bit, you would use a stacked slot cutter; smae cut technique, different bit geometry. The end on the one shown below is curved and uses a shop made curved " fence" but the same technique applies to straight ends.
With the router unplugged I put stops on the fence, place the piece against the right hand stop angle to be clear of the bit. I had to rig a dust collection alternative as the standard fence normally holds the fence dust port.
Attachment 380402
Plug in the router, set the speed as appropriate for your bits size to avoid burning and fire it up. Using the edge against the stop as a pivot I arc into the bit, slide along the fence to the other stop. Using the other edge now against the other stop I arc the material away from the bit.
Attachment 380401 . Attachment 380403
Glenn's technique is also the way I mill finger holds (I think I may have learned from Glenn a few years ago from one of his earlier posts). Yet, I wonder about a "ramped" finger hold as described by the OP. Frankly, I don't understand what the benefit is for a ramped configuration vs. the way Glenn has shown. :confused:
I could give you plenty of pointers on making "slopped" grooves on a router, I have made plenty of them... Too wide, crooked and otherwise...:rolleyes:
Being a hobbyist woodworker the "slopped" pieces are usually too small to recover for something else. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Anderson