False Cabinet panel design ideas?

I’m building some shaker-style cabinets for a home bar. I have an appliance that I’d like to cover, but due to clearance issues, Standard cabinet doors won’t work.


So I’m thinking of making a panel that looks like two cabinet doors and a single wide drawer above (perhaps two drawers, if that works better?): but I’m unsure how to go about it. I don’t want to make it too heavy, and there isn’t enough clearance behind the panel due to the appliance protruding (so I can’t simply mount a couple of doors and drawer face to a piece of plywood greater than 1/4”.


I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?

Attachment 371423


Or is there a better method I’m missing?

Sorry for the duplicate photos...

your idea of a routed line will work, but i think i would make 4 fronts and glue/join them edge to edge.

That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.

"I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?"

I don't get it. If you have a clearance problem with two conventional doors, how would it help to make them one door?

Sure that will work. Either rout or saw for the reveal depending on how wide you want it. When I make fronts for a bank of drawers I make it as one unit then crosscut at the center of the rails. This gives a continuous grain on the stiles and matching grain on the rails.

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Originally Posted by larry senen

your idea of a routed line will work, but i think i would make 4 fronts and glue/join them edge to edge.

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Its a big panel, and my selection of clamps at the moment isn’t the greatest (working on it!). I considered this: but just figured trying to use one piece of stock would be easier with the tools I have.

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Originally Posted by Rick Malakoff

That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.

"I’m wondering if building the frame as a single unit and then routing in a “gap” to simulate different panels would work? Such as the dotted lines shown in my crummy sketch?"

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Ah: I have no idea why I didn’t even consider a saw? How wide and deep do you typically recommend? Does painting the gap black help with the effect any?

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Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton

I don't get it. If you have a clearance problem with two conventional doors, how would it help to make them one door?

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The appliance faces a narrow entrance to the bar: adding doors on hinges wouldn’t give me the room needed to maneuver the appliance easily.

If if I make a panel that mimics doors, I can just slide it aside and get to the appliance if needed much easier.

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Originally Posted by Steve Jenkins

Sure that will work. Either rout or saw for the reveal depending on how wide you want it. When I make fronts for a bank of drawers I make it as one unit then crosscut at the center of the rails. This gives a continuous grain on the stiles and matching grain on the rails.

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Ah, that’s a smart idea!

You might consider magnets to hold the panel in place. They unsnap without tools. Look at lee valley for them.

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Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton

You might consider magnets to hold the panel in place. They unsnap without tools. Look at lee valley for them.

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Thats what I was hoping to use... if I can find a set that will fit the application!

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Originally Posted by Rick Malakoff

That's the way I've done it in the past. All you need is a saw kerf for the shadow.

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That's how I handled the "doors" and "drawers" on the back side of some cabinets in our kitchen that are exposed to the eating area. The reveals are essentially saw kerfs on the edges of the "doors" and "drawers" which were built to fully fill the space so no light would leak through. The kerfs are about half the thickness. The only clue that they don't open is that there are no visible hinges on that side. (my cabinetry uses butt-style hinges and it's all face frame with full inset)

You can hang the panel on some small screws or nails. May need magnets anyway to stop it rattling when the appliance is on.

Andrew,

No more than an eighth of an inch wide and a quarter to three eighths deep, as for painting I have used a sharpie and/or a carpenters pencil in a pinch.

"Ah: I have no idea why I didn’t even consider a saw? How wide and deep do you typically recommend? Does painting the gap black help with the effect any?"

Rick