TV Cabinet

I am in the process of making a tv cabinet like this. I have come to making the top and not sure which way to go so asking here for suggestions.

I would like a thicker looking top 1" to 1 1/4" edge but the middle top doesn't need to be that thick. I would like to use hardwood for the top but if plywood would be a better choice then I could do that. I could think of a couple ways to go but I am undecided.

How would you go about getting a thick looking top ?

Thanks

Attachment 440621

I used 3/4 plywood for the field and framed it with 5/4 hardwood front and sides on mine.

I could do that and it would sure make it easier.
So what did you do with the overhang ? Did your 5/4 overhang sit up against the face frame , cabinet ?
Thanks

The 5/4 was wide enough to rest on top of the cabinet and overhang about 1 inch past the front and sides.

Who’s to say the top glue up all has to be the same thickness? The front edge can use thicker wood and the end grain thickened up just at the ends, the back? Who cares! This keeps the fine furniture character, it all depends where it’s going.

Just a couple more questions. I'm going with solid wood top glued up with some 3/4 " oak.
I am going to use some 5/4 all the way around the edges.
2" wide on the front and back edges
3 1/2 or 4" wide on the ends like a bread board.

What is the best way to attach the 5/4 to the edges ? For the front and back could I use my biscuit joiner and glue them on ?

For the end bread boards do I need to do something different ? Tongue and Groove ? Or would biscuit joiner be ok ?

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Burke

Just a couple more questions. I'm going with solid wood top glued up with some 3/4 " oak.
I am going to use some 5/4 all the way around the edges.
2" wide on the front and back edges
3 1/2 or 4" wide on the ends like a bread board.

What is the best way to attach the 5/4 to the edges ? For the front and back could I use my biscuit joiner and glue them on ?

For the end bread boards do I need to do something different ? Tongue and Groove ? Or would biscuit joiner be ok ?

Thanks

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Adding breadboard ends will work. but you must allow the glued up boards of the center portion a way to move with seasonal moisture changes. You need to mount the breadboard ends so the center field can slide in them. Glue the front corners of your edging together so the front always looks nice and let the back edges move. You can attach the edges with sliding dovetails or pinned motice and tenon, anything but glue.

Thanks Lee,

So I could use mortise and tenon or tongue n groove on the end breadboards ?
I should use dowel to hold the breadboard end on and only glue the middle dowel and a little of the others ?

Then on the front and back edge...could I use the same technique with the tongue and groove ? And dowel them also ? Would just doweling them from the underneath side and not going all the way through the top work ?

Sorry for not catching on so quick...I have made tops before just out of 3/4" mat... but this technique with adding the thicker ends and front is new for me.

Thanks

No need for the pins to go all the way through and you could hide them by inserting from the bottom of the panel. The center can be glued but the other pins must not be glued to the top but only to the breadboard end piece. If you soften the breadboard end connection at the front of the panel, you may be happy with an exposed tongue in the open end groove. I have a cherry table made this way and the movement is not at all noticeable.

The front piece with grain running the same direction as the top can be glued along the entire length. Good luck!