Slabbing This Weekend

Planning on doing some slabbing this weekend. I could use some advice on this black walnut I've got. New to this site so here's my attempt to upload pics.
Here is the stash I'll be working with, a handful of black walnuts and some oaks.
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Here is what I'm thinking for the walnut. 4/4 on the outer narrower stuff, a handful of nice 8/4 or 9/4 slabs. For the center around the pith I'm thinking 16/4 for mantles and split down the center at the pith, of course that will really be determined by the log diameter, which I don't know for sure. I do remember however that my 20" bar didn't cross the full width of the big end, can't recall the small end though.
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Any advice is appreciated. Also advice on stacking and drying, this stuff will likely be outside for a while. I read that tar paper is the best cover, is it as simple as sticker and cover the top with some weight or is there a little more to it than that. (Still new to milling, everything else I have cut is stacked under cover so sun and rain isn't an issue, fans in places with no wind- this isn't really an option in this case)

I slabbed some walnut last week. Lots of ways to slice it, on the widest log I cut just above and below the pith to get some two wide 4" quartersawn slabs. Your way would eliminate having to wedge up one end of the log perfectly and would be more forgiving of a wandering pith. Perhaps align the log so any misalignment in the pith is on a vertical line so it could be more easily cut away with the rip cut down the middle of the wide slab.

If you apply anchorseal to the ends of the logs when first felled you may get fewer end degrade. At one time I bought a 55 gal drum of the stuff from UC Coatings: https://uccoatings.com/shop/product/anchorseal/

For stickering I lay 3x3 or 4x4 rails on cinder blocks then lay 3x3 or 4x4s across the rails and put my first row of stickers on the cross pieces. Stack, of course, with stickers aligned vertically and not too far apart.

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If the stack is wide I allow spacing between the planks to make "chimneys" to allow for air movement.

I always cover the top layer of stickers with something, old tin roofing if I have it. Tar paper should be fine, perhaps even the synthetic type. I often use thin slabs from the outside of the logs. Pile cinder blocks or other weights on the top of the stack.

There are free government publications available for download that cover all aspects of sawing and drying.

Might want to get those logs off the ground, especially if it's not cold yet where you live. If new to sawmilling, your blades will last longer if you keep the dirt and small rocks off the bark - a pressure washer is perfect for this

BTW, I just got a new tool which makes my sawmill time easier. Makes moving an positioning logs easier than with the tractor or bobcat.

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Also, if you are a "Member" and not a "Contributor", you might not be able to see photos in messages to to recent necessary changes here. A token contribution will take care of that: https://sawmillcreek.org/payments.php

JKJ

So I haven't broken down and bought anchor seal yet, I read people have had decent results with latex based paints, and I had a 5 gallon bucket of black, which is what you can see on some of the logs in the pics, just hadn't gotten around to all of them yet. Can't really say how well its working yet, I've only got one not-so-straight pecan with some bad checking but a ton of red oak and pine with very little so far.

These particular black walnuts got laid over in a storm at least 10 years ago and were still partially alive, but the bark and sap layer is pretty much toast. A good pressure wash is a definite must, and I'm in SE TX so cold isn't too much of an issue, definitely no snow but I'll for sure get some ground clearance.
Here are a couple of cookies I cut from just above the root ball, as you can see a little rot has started, but it looks like walnuts rot resistance reputation is well deserved. (size 13 shoe for reference)
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Word on the street is latex plant is not very good as a sealer since water vapor goes through it too quickly. Maybe multiple coats would be better, I don't now. Oil-based exterior paint is apparently better. Another sealer is aluminum paint. Some apply melted paraffin, not a pleasant task. Roofing tar is supposed to be very good but what a mess.

Sometimes holes like that go all the way up the log making it difficult to get any good boards. Sometimes they are full of big black ants. Part of the fun of sawing is the joy of discovery!

JKJ

Menards sells a white plastic elastomeric roof coating, that you roll on, have read it works well for end sealer. I bought a 5 gallon bucket on sale for 50$. Haven't tried it yet, but need to cut some ash logs down soon.

Ok so its actually not just paint, its latex based asphalt driveway sealer. I forgot where I read about using it for end sealer but it was only $15 for 5 gallons if I remember. Probably could use multiple coats though. And I have experience finding ants in the middle of logs, lightning struck tree left standing for a while had them all the through the burn area full length and half the width.

If you use tar for end sealer, plan on cutting the ends off the log before milling it. Otherwise, your blade will get coated with tar, and it will rub off on the boards as you saw.

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Originally Posted by Jim Andrew

If you use tar for end sealer, plan on cutting the ends off the log before milling it. Otherwise, your blade will get coated with tar, and it will rub off on the boards as you saw.

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I think this stuff only contains a small percentage of actual tar, its pretty watery like paint and it has latex added, and it goes on pretty thin. The black will carry an inch or so into the cut at most if any and seems to wipe off clean with the sawdust, and I haven't noticed any sticking to the blade. Maybe I've just been luck so far but I'm sure something with a higher tar content would cause the problems you mentioned, like roofing tar. I started looking through pictures to see if I can spot any tar issues. Attached (still not sure about pics on here) is a red oak I cut, you can see the black on the end, the book matched set is pecan, both were painted before being cut.

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Originally Posted by Nathan Jordan

I think this stuff only contains a small percentage of actual tar, its pretty watery like paint and it has latex added, and it goes on pretty thin. The black will carry an inch or so into the cut at most if any and seems to wipe off clean with the sawdust, and I haven't noticed any sticking to the blade. Maybe I've just been luck so far but I'm sure something with a higher tar content would cause the problems you mentioned, like roofing tar. I started looking through pictures to see if I can spot any tar issues. Attached (still not sure about pics on here) is a red oak I cut, you can see the black on the end, the book matched set is pecan, both were painted before being cut.

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Maybe try a test. Cut some rounds of cherry or oak or something from the same log. Coat the end of one with anchorseal, one with the driveway sealer, one with whatever. Put them out the weather and see which works better.

I've found many black ants in wood, some very high in the tree. I usually pour a bit of gasoline in the crack/holes to wipe them out.

JKJ

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Originally Posted by John K Jordan

Maybe try a test. Cut some rounds of cherry or oak or something from the same log. Coat the end of one with anchorseal, one with the driveway sealer, one with whatever. Put them out the weather and see which works better.
JKJ

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That's a good idea, I figured somebody on youtube would have tried that already but couldn't find anything good. Most of the videos are of people trying weird methods I've never heard of or people who have already decided (or figured out) that anchorseal works best. Haven't really done a thorough search though.

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Originally Posted by Nathan Jordan

That's a good idea, I figured somebody on youtube would have tried that already but couldn't find anything good. Most of the videos are of people trying weird methods I've never heard of or people who have already decided (or figured out) that anchorseal works best. Haven't really done a thorough search though.

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Seems like very few people these days take the time or effort to do real experiments, instead working on "try something, seems to work OK, quick - make a video and get views".

Overall, I find youtube one of the least useful sources of information. Rather than youtube, you might instead search for technical publications concerning wood processing, sawing and drying. I'm sure that's where I read about the pros and cons of various sealing materials. There is a wealth of good information in government publications such as from the Forest Products Laboratory, and from researchers at various universities. Some of these "old" and may be difficult to read but the information is good. Forums like the Forestry Forum are also good to search.

JKJ

AnchorSeal works very well, but it was designed for this specific use. There are other manufacturers of similar products. I think that I read somewhere that AnchorSeal only cost .01 to .02 per board foot. It is common that, when buying logs, the length specified usually will include a trim allowance (usually 3" to 6"), so when buying 8' logs, you would expect them to be 8'3" to 8'6" long. The theory being that, after milling, you should be able to square up a board and get an 8' board. (ditto for 10', 12', 16' etc.). If you don't use an effective end sealer on your logs, you'll often have a couple of inches of checking at each end, and if you trim that off you'll be below the required length.

Personally, I would never use roofing mastic, tar, aluminized coatings or anything like that might damage or dull the blade (or any tool that is used after the sawmill). Perhaps, because I am a sawyer, I am alert to the problems caused by any end coating that obscures the ends of a log. The ability to see metal stain, or the annual rings of the log, helps me get the best lumber from each log.

Unfortunately; skills like critical thinking, using the scientific method, understanding logical fallacies, and the art of argument (debate), are going the way of cursive writing.

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Originally Posted by Jim Andrew

Menards sells a white plastic elastomeric roof coating, that you roll on, have read it works well for end sealer. I bought a 5 gallon bucket on sale for 50$. Haven't tried it yet, but need to cut some ash logs down soon.

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The thing about Anchorseal versus anything else is that Anchorseal is designed to work best as an end sealer, and the rest are compromises. I too buy it by the 55 gallon drum and prefer it to other alternatives.

Personally I would resist using an end sealer with tar in it. I seal before milling, and non AS end sealers will either dull or gunk up the blade. Also, the ends would have to be trimmed off before planing, which is extra work.

Re end sealing, keep in mind that end sealers are only effective if applied within 3 days of a fresh cut on the ends of the logs. Beyond that you need to retrim and seal.

Boards / slabs milled close to the bark tend to cup more than ones from the middle 2/3 of the log. I would suggest that you mill the outer boards at 5/4 to allow room to joint/plane them down to 3/4” after drying. It’s a good idea to capture the center pith in the middle slab by leveling both ends of the log relative to your tracks.

Best of success to you with this project!

Scott