I recently bought a new rikon 10-3061 bandsaw and set it up according to the manual and various youtube video guides, have not done any real projects yet, but I just noticed that while everything looks good now, when the blade guide(guard) moves down, the blade will touch(roll) the rear bearing all the time.
I googled and searched online, and don't see any fix for this, anything I can do? thanks!
Hi, is the blade at right angles to the table?
If so, the column that the guides are attached to is not at right angles to the table.
It’s possible both need adjusting…..Rod
oh, yes, I forget to mention, the blade is 90 to the table, on the back and on the side.
I am not sure how to adjust the column...messed around a little bit and cannot find a way.
Use it before trying to fix something that may not influence the cut at all.
Did you check the wheels for coplanar?
If you take the table off you can use plumb lines for levelling machine in both axis of the column (machine frame)
and have another plumbline for checking wheels for depth.
Might as well check the wheels for east west alignment, for which you can use a beam and rule, checking with a tensioned blade, and test running lower wheel under power first with loose drive belt.
The wheels will need to be made co planar and parallel with column to keep an eye on things whilst checking.
Only then will you know whether the guidepost is an issue or not.
Not an uncommon thing whatsoever, and dare I say possibly set up to suit the error,
which might not be nice to the wheel bores, bearings and motor bearings.
The upper wheel is the final word on setup IMO as it cannot be skewed, and should the motor be a flange mounted one
then hopefully the drive belt aligns up with the wheel hub, as the bottom wheel should be aligned with the top wheel.
You can run your eye along the belt to see if it looks right with table off.
Tom
Do you mean you have proper clearance between the rear of the blade and the thrust bearing while cranked up to the maximum height (and locked) but the clearance gets smaller as the guides are lowered and locked?Quote:
Originally Posted by Forrest Gon
I would do this first: put a dial caliper on the column, remove the blade, and using a good square on the table measure just how much it is out of square over the height range. Be sure to tighten the locking knob.
If significant, I'd call Rikon support.
I'm not familiar with that saw. I have an 18" Rikon. On mine the support for the upper guide mechanism is fastened to the frame with four bolts, two above the others. Mine is in good adjustment but if not, I suspect I could make a minor adjustment with shim stock on either the upper or lower part of the mechanism block.
JKJ
The bearing behind the blade is adjustable, simply readjust it after you move the guide. It should only touch as you press a piece of wood into the blade to make a cut.
As long as your blade is centered on the upper wheel you should be okay to make a trial cut. Unless your saw w,as damaged in shipping it is probably okay. My bandsaw has never been checked to see if the wheels are coplanar, but it cuts and resaw very well. My upper wheel is adjusted (tilted) so each blade is moved to run on the center of the upper wheel.