Router Table and Router Table Fence

Here's the router table and router table fence I have been building. There is a little more work to do on the micro-adjuster, which is coming from AliExpress, as well as the dust extractor for the (2 1/4 hp) Elu 177e router I use. But for now, the rest is done.


This is a very full-on set up. What is relevant is that it did not cost much (don't include the cost of the JessEm guides, which are excellent but a little luxury). It is difficult to total, as some parts, such as the aluminium insert plate, was purchased about 3 years ago, as was the Router Raizer lift, and the MuscleChuck router bit change.


The base for the router table was a laminated high pressure MDF kitchen bench off cut from a kitchen maker ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3RSCMdKT/F9.jpg


This was build into the outfeed of my Hammer K3 sliding table saw ...


https://i.postimg.cc/y6FXwqhW/RTF1a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/50zq4TZ7/RTF2a.jpg


These aluminium plates are excellent. After 3 years of hanging the heavy Elu, there is no signs of any dips. The surface remains flat, flat.


The Elu below, minus handles, with Router Raizer attached ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Xq0KpxWV/RTF4a.jpg


Above the plate, the MuscleChuck allows for changing bits and easy bit-holding. I built a handle for the Router Raizer from a cut-down socket wrench. This enable fast spinning as well as fine adjustments with the fence close by.


https://i.postimg.cc/PJzWZZf1/RTF5a.jpg


The heart of the fence is made for 8020 extruded aluminium (80mm high and 20mm wide). I comes in 1m lengths, and this fence is 600mm long.


https://i.postimg.cc/jSkzzRT3/RTF6a.jpg


Note that the slots of this extrusion use different T-bits ...


https://i.postimg.cc/ryCxf1cr/RTF13-2a.jpg


The only other part I bought in were the sub-fences, since these are phenolic-coated, and the dust port.


https://i.postimg.cc/15scSWMB/RTF7a.jpg


The subfences. Also note that the dust collection port in the mainfence was made with a 2 1/4" hole saw ...


https://i.postimg.cc/YS5Ys8h1/RTF12a.jpg


The Jessem guides, and the bit guard I made ...


https://i.postimg.cc/htGLzfk7/RTF8a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/fTC7RxrN/RTF9a.jpg


Made in two sections and superglued together ...


https://i.postimg.cc/xdJL5BTf/RTF10a.jpg


The rear of the fence, with the dust port, and sub-fence adjusters ...


https://i.postimg.cc/NFYTgM8F/RTF11a.jpg


The reason for bolting on the dust port was not simply to make it possible to remove, but this enabled the T-track to be plugged ...


https://i.postimg.cc/mD7CfMHK/RTF13-1a.jpg

The (very stiff) UHMW fence bracket is temporary ...


https://i.postimg.cc/L5TPhpvT/RTF13a.jpg


and will be replaced by these brackets with fine-adjuster (only needed on one side) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wTqJZ1Tb/RTF13b.jpg


There is adjustment built into the brackets to ensure that the working side of the fence is square to the table ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Qxf53jFN/RTF14a.jpg


I hope that this provides some ideas for your build.


Regards from Perth


Derek

Very well done! It is always worth the effort to go the extra mile.

I have transformed my table routing since I moved to a lift. I know you'll love having this.

Derek, do you suppose you might want to bevel-in the mating ends of the sub fences for when you run a larger bit just a few mm out from the fence? This could enable the subfence faces to close more tightly around the bit.

Enjoy your lift! Beautiful build. Love the fine-tuning adjustment.

Thanks Bob. :)

If I run a large bit which requires zero clearance, I would use a separate, sacrificial MDF sub-fence for it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
Is your fence (2) 8020 sections? It looks like the top of your fence overhangs the front so that for subfences are flush with the top rail.

Looks great!

Mike

I've been trying to figure that out too. My guess is it's a simple track for 1/4" screws. And the black strip is a spacer to make up the thickness of the phenolic fence plates. Screws thru to the main fence front face.

Very slick, however he did it. I'm going to eventually rip off his idea of the stock guides on the TS fence. I made some brackets to mount the router table version. They work fairly well. Just today got the TS version thru the WC sale.

The sub-fences are about 1mm inside the T-track over-hang.

Starting with the basic extrusion ...

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/ssl_p...zRT3/RTF6a.jpghttps://www.forums.woodnet.net/images/resize.png



... spacer is added to extend the track a couple of mm past the sub-fences ...

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/ssl_p...RjG/fence1.jpghttps://www.forums.woodnet.net/images/resize.png



The spacer is UHMW (I wanted something I could machine to size, and liked that it was black and will not degrade),. The UHMW is hard and fairly stiff. However, there was a smidge of flex, and so added a lot of T-bolts. I should point out that this is only made necessary as the JessEm hold downs are used. They have wheels which need to not be allowed to flex away ...


https://www.forums.woodnet.net/ssl_p...MDq/fence2.jpghttps://www.forums.woodnet.net/images/resize.png



https://www.forums.woodnet.net/ssl_p...BSj/fence3.jpghttps://www.forums.woodnet.net/images/resize.png

The last photo is self explanatory ...

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/ssl_p...32x/fence4.jpghttps://www.forums.woodnet.net/images/resize.png



Regards from Perth

Derek

Two more tasks completed with the "new" router table ...

Firstly, the below-table dust collection system was completed. This adds to the dust collection in the fence.

The Elu 177e router, which is used in this table, did not come with dust control. I have two of these routers, the first one purchased 25 years ago. I guess that dust control was not a concern then. However, when Elu was taken over by Black & Decker, their top-of-the-line router became the DeWalt DW625. This was a straight copy of the Elu 177e, and it did come with dust control. So, for those out there with a Elu and wanting dust control, get the part for the DW 625.

With a slight modification (to seal any gaps), this was added here ...

https://i.postimg.cc/bwQzK4J8/6.jpg


The second modification was to remove one of the springs. Plunge routers in a table have to fight their springs. I considered removing both springs, tried this, however it felt too loose - the router has to rely on its weight and gravity to open. One spring adds a little tension and is a decent compromise.

The spring which remained is the one alongside the Router Raizer ...


https://i.postimg.cc/PxqTvxMr/5.jpg

Up-and-down travel is now smoother and less effort.


This is the dust collector from above the table ...

https://i.postimg.cc/V6H1q879/4.jpg

It does not impede above-table bit changing ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Zq4TZjBN/3.jpg

A tip, for those using a router table in their table saw extension, is to keep an undrilled router bit cover to prevent saw dust dropping down into the arbour of the router ...

https://i.postimg.cc/9fbcfTZn/2.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek