Is Minwax Antique Oil Finish similar to Waterlox?
Printable View
Is Minwax Antique Oil Finish similar to Waterlox?
It's a nice wiping varnish. I forget the specifics of the formula but recall it has a warm and slightly darker oiling effect than some finishes. I used it for a lot of my turnings a number of years ago.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Gibbons
I think the Waterlox is a bit less thinned out than the M.A.O.F. And the Minwax product does seem to have a greater ambering effect than other varnish products I've used. As it is very thin it does take several coats to get a result. For me, the minimum is 4 before I stop seeing unevenness. Then a minimum of 6 to get something I consider nice. Most I've done is probably 10 to get greater sheen.
I can't remember the minimum re-coat time listed on the can. For the first coats where it is just soaking in and sealing I think 1-2 hours is fine. Then I generally give it 24h between.
Can recall if I've tried this as a friction polish on the lathe. But most wiping varnish formulations work reasonably well in that application.
One thing about the Minwax Antique Oil product and many others of these wipe on finishes...you need to use them up. They do not last in the container long term once opened. Using an oxygen replacement can help or decanting into bag systems that permit air removal can help, too.
This is the reason I've gone to mixing up homemade wiping varnish. I just mix up the minimum amount needed for the job and even then I never use it all. Any left over ends up gelling up in a couple three weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
What formula do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Monroe
The simplest, 50/50 Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Clear Satin and gum turpentine. Mineral spirits can be substituted for the turpentine.
Minwax Antique Oil is an oil varnish blend and needs to be wiped off shortly after applying. Waterlox is a varnish and is meant to be left on the surface after applying since it will dry hard. If any more than the thinnest film of Antique Oil is left to dry, it will be a soft sticky mess.
Why do some use Naptha or other solvent choices when mixing up batches of oil-based poly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Monroe
Multiple products will do the job, but it's best to use the reducer that the finish manufacturer specifies for the given product. I'm using more naptha around the shop these days instead of "paint thinner"/mineral spirits because it has less residue. Therefore, if I were going to use something oil based (a rare thing for me) and needed to thin it, I'd probably grab the naptha because it's what I have available, despite my own advise to use what the finish manufacturer indicates.Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Mattsen
...and this is why I use turpentine. I have a few rescued cans of gum turpentine. The stuff needs to be used up and does the job, plus it smells wonderful to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
I agree that Minwax AO doesn't last long in the can once opened. Within a couple of months it will not wet out as well on the surface of the item being finished as compared to AO from a newly opened can. However, I've found that storing it in Stoploss bags, extends the usuable life well past a year. As an added bonus, it's much easier to open and dispense finish from the StopLoss bags than from the AO can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
I used a lot of antique oil on woodturned bowls. It seemed to be the go-to finish for the folks who were active on the SMC turning forum when I started turning about 10 years ago. It will develop a yellowish hue with time, which looks ok on cherry, walnut, but not so good on maple or anything you want to stay white. Waterlox seems to add less of the yellowish hue.