SuperNova jaws rusting

I'm fighting a losing battle against rust on my chuck jaws.

For example, I cleaned off all the rust with a scotch-brite pad and WD-40, wiped off the jaws, applied paste wax and wiped that off.

I mounted an unseasoned cherry bowl I'd turned a few days earlier and left sitting to dry out (so it wouldn't clog the sandpaper.)

After sanding the bowl, the jaw faces were again covered with rust.

I know this relates to mounting unseasoned (wet) wood.

Is there anything better for removing rust than the WD-40 on a synthetic wool pad?

Does anybody have a tip or trick for preventing, or at least slowing down, the rust. A coat of shellac on the jaws? A different kind of paste wax? Some polyurethane? Anything?

Thanks for your input.

Fred

If you can find it, "Break free" is the best thing I have used. Try "Google" break free. Gun nuts love the stuff, and I have found that it realy loosens the kind of rust you are talking about. :):) Maybe at the Gun store.
Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert hainstock

If you can find it, "Break free" is the best thing I have used. Try "Google" break free. Gun nuts love the stuff, and I have found that it realy loosens the kind of rust you are talking about. :):) Maybe at the Gun store.
Bob

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Bob's right about Break Free CLP. I've been using it for years on my firearms and even use to remove mild rust haze on tool surfaces. Protects for a long time. Do a Google search for Break Free CLP. You'll even find it on Amazon. :)

Ok, I haven't tried this, but I'm wondering if in some situations, especially where maybe you use a faceplate and screws for mounting - if a person couldn't use a small piece of saran wrap or something? Maybe just that little bit of protection would make the difference...

I'm going to have to give it a shot in the not too distant future, but I don't know how or if it would work on chuck jaws, or whether it might cause slipping. Larry

Tanning from wet wood is going to turn metal black and rust. When the bowl dries, it is going to turn oval anyway. Unless you re-turn it, it won't run true. Why not just take the bowl off the chuck and re-mount it when dry?

The jaws aren't stainless steel, they are not meant to be having constant contact with wet wood for days.

I agree with Gordon. I never leave wet wood in a chuck for days not even a couple of days or you will get rust big time. I take mine out of the jaws to dry then retrue the tenon and then chuck up to return the bowl, sand and finish.

I use a handblock (a metal rust eraser) to get rid of light surface rust. As for protecting, I like paste wax and if then if that doesn't work Boeshield, and if that doesn't work Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protectant (sort of like cosmoline).

I have some Break-Free CLP and have tried it on the jaws, tool rests and ways. Will see how it does.

Steven, I have the (Klingspor) handblock and will try that on the lathe ways. It would be hard to use on the chuck jaws. The paste wax hasn't worked very well, but I have some Boeshield and will give it a try. If all else fails, I have some Cleanzoil that might work. (It's an oil used for cleaning guns and protecting them from rust.)

Gordon & Bernie, I'm sure the tannins in the wet cherry are the culprit, even though I've never left a workpiece in the chuck longer than the time it takes to turn it or sand it.

The rust mentioned in the original post occurred in just the 15-20 minutes it took to sand the bowl on the lathe - a 1/4" thick cherry bowl that had been drying for several days.

I've found a washcoat or two of one-pound shellac reduces the rusting on the jaws and the dark staining of the tenon. (So I don't have to remove as much of the tenon or bottom to get rid of the black marks.)

Larry, the faceplates have not been an issue, since I mostly use aluminum ones. The saran wrap sounds like a good idea, I keep a roll in the shop (for glueups) and will give it a try.

These were some good responses and will help me think outside the box (i.e. Break Free, Cleanzoil, rust eraser, Boeshield, saran wrap.)

Appreciate it.

Fred