Gravotstyle and IS400 Questions

1. When I am doing desk nameplates and I want to 2D on the surface the machine states, “That there are 22 intersection(s) do you want to continue?” I always say “yes”, but I tried to eliminate the intersections and it would not let me hatch the name, what I want to know is why the machine will not allow me to hatch the name when I take out the intersections?

2. I do a lot of POGs, so I want to work out the paths in this case there are four paths, I want to set the “auto Zref”(this is without the regulating nose) to make three passes to cut the material, the material is 1/16th of an inch thick, so each pass is 0.0208, the problem that I have is; I have to go back to the computer and reset the depth for each path, starting with; 0.0208, I would hope that when I do the next pass it would do another pass adding 0.0208, for a total of 0.0416, and again on the last pass adding 0.0208 for a total of 0.0624. So how do I fix this issue?

3. Sometimes when I have two paths on the same layer the depth can be set for one using the “auto Zref”, but not the other, and I would like to know why this is the way it is?

Thank you in advance.

All auto-zref does is make the machine stop before engraving, so that you can press the 'check-mark' button to automatically drop the spindle and zero-point the tool. That's all it does, nothing more. Auto zref has nothing to do with subsequent passes, that's all entered manually. And do yourself a favor and zero your tools to the substrate manually, much more accurate :)

For subsequent passes, you just choose how many passes, and directly enter the depth you want beyond the zero point.

This is the run screen for my G5 that runs my IS7000, I've entered 3 passes and your depths--
Attachment 395087
And with each next pass, you can also change cutting speeds and tool-plunge speed and dwell time, so the deeper you go with each pass, you can have the tool enter slower, and cut slower.

As to your intersections problem, not sure what to do about that, try not messing with them, I think that's worked for me (but don't happen all that often so...)

Wow, that was incredibly helpful, Thank you!

My other question, I can't seem to figure out is about cutting.

If I am using the regulating nose, I send the job, the head comes out, I set the micrometer to 0, drop it down, drop my cutter to the surface, lock it in place, press check the head goes up and I set my depth. Let's say 3 thousandths. So now it is good to engrave, I guess my question is now how do I cut with that set up? Assuming I am using like a 1/16" 2 ply plastic sheet.

Cutting requires straight sided tools, like endmills. But endmill don't work well with acrylics because they tend to overheat and melt. As for the depth gauges, the nose micrometer is good for 1/8" worth of depth, just zero it with it unscrewed at least 5 turns from all-up tight. When using depth noses the actual depth is set by the nose, in the software you add .02 or so to the actual to insure the nose follows any low spots and engraves equally. So if your nose is set for .02 deep, set the machine to .04 or .05, when you move the nose deeper, just move the machine's depth the same...

Kev
I just got a new IS400 (version 2002) and Gravostyle is a challenge after using Engravlab.

How about listing an 800 number to make it easier for us newbies?;)

Here's how I'd do this project, assuming the name plates were all the same size and followed the same general format.

1. Make a file document the exact size of the plate.

2. Do my text layout with one of the examples. Typically I'll pick a mid length name and title. I would strongly recommend using a Gravostyle engraving font. Using a TTF font makes no sense the vast majority of the time.

3. Now that I have it formatted, I'd select each "variable" and use the "make a variable tool" or just type in what I'd want to call it. Something like |Name| or |Title|

4. Now I'm going to type in my list or copy and paste my list into the variable list.

5. Once that's all done, now it's time to create my matrix with whatever offsets you desire. I would make sure to make my lines a different color for tool path purposes.

6. Now it's time to assign a tool to each color. Typically we'll use a profiler bit for cutting and whatever width cutter that looks best for the text. For cutting, I'd go about .055 deep. You can do this in 1-2 passes.

7. I'd put my plastic on the table at this point. Do not peel the slip sheet. Because I'm cutting, I'm either going with an engravers pad or using a thin piece of masonite as a spoilboard. I do not want my cutter going too deep accidentally and ruining my cutter.

8. I'm going to now send over just the cut lines by selecting just the cut lines. Personally, I'm not a big user of the nose cone but at this point you can set it as per Kev's instructions above.

9. Now I'm removing the cutter and putting in my engraving bit. I'm peeling the slip sheet as well. Now I'm sending over just the engraving. I'm going to hit go and then immediately hit pause. Z my cutter not using the nose cone at all. I've had too many circumstances where I used it early on, it caused rubs/scratches and ruined my work. After setting my cutter, I hit go and let it engrave.

Theoretically now you have cut plates which you just need to snap apart and they should all be engraved. Thankfully I push nearly all this type of work to the laser which is way faster and more efficient.

Ok, but won't the nose scratch the plastic if I am forcing it downwards? For instance, if I set my micrometer to 3 (.03) for engraving and then I add .02 for the cut, which I have chosen on a separate layer, right? When the machine comes down with the extra depth won't it scratch my gravoply plastic sign material?

Sorry, I know, it's my first few weeks with the machine. But thank you.

Thanks Ross. So, to make clear, you don't engrave and then cut with the same cutter? I was hoping I could engrave the text and then have it come out deeper and cut. Is that not possible?

I'd use a profiler bit on the cut and whatever bit looked right on the lettering.

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