Basic safety question: lathe position
Creekers, is it unsafe to have a lathe too close to a wall, for potential bounce-back if the workpiece breaks up? I am relocating my midi-lathe in my shop, and my first choice was in a corner up against a concrete wall. The spindle would be about a foot from the wall, so with workpiece thats max 10" diameter, is that too close? I couldn't find a reference book that addresses that. As usual, I didn't think of that potential problem until I already moved it.
Thanks for input.
1 Attachment(s)
I like the lathe close to the wall
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Stan Calow
Creekers, is it unsafe to have a lathe too close to a wall, for potential bounce-back if the workpiece breaks up? I am relocating my midi-lathe in my shop, and my first choice was in a corner up against a concrete wall. The spindle would be about a foot from the wall, so with workpiece thats max 10" diameter, is that too close? I couldn't find a reference book that addresses that. As usual, I didn't think of that potential problem until I already moved it.
It might depend on what you turn. I like my lathes close to the walls for the types of things I turn. I think the bed is about 18" from the wall on this one giving enough room to position the dust collection pickup. Those who like to turn big bowls and hollow forms sometimes like the lathe further away, not as a bounce safety issue but for access.
I'd probably think more about why a piece might even come off the lathe. Well mounted and turned at a safe speed with good technique you should never have one come off the lathe. I think it's wise to avoid turning junk wood with lots of cracks and voids, especially at high speed. I suppose if you planned on turning things that might come apart you could hang a heavy canvas tarp from the ceiling. But then what if it goes straight up? Many lathes come with safety cages but almost no one uses them. Got one of those? A face mask is not going to stop a heavy projectile.
If turning a chunk that lacks integrity and has a chance of coming apart, a friend of mine has a useful technique. He turns big things with voids by turning the outside first then wraps the outside with nylon strapping tape to hold it together while turning the inside.
Of course, always, always, stand well to the side when turning the lathe on. (Graeme Priddle said this should be your mantra) If bouncing off the wall was a concern at all, perhaps you can hang something like a heavy curtain.
I personally have no problems with turning even larger things with the lathe near the wall. I sometimes turn in reverse so I can see the cut on the inside of bowls. Mark StLeger recommends breaking the habit of bending over to peer into something when hollowing - it just makes the back hurt and you usually can't see a thing anyway. He said, and I agree, to stand comfortably and learn to do the hollowing by feel. Access at the end of the lathe is helpful when hollowing, not for peering but for leverage and control.
This is how I like things - everything I use most often is within arm's reach, directly behind me, or within two or three steps.
Attachment 381004
Of course, you don't need to access this much stuff if your turning is more limited in scope.
JKJ