Freehand chainsaw milling, anyone seen this utoober?

First off, not sure if this video might be mentioned here already, and apologies if so,
as I normally go to the other forums when I visit here, but IIRC, this Sawmills and Kiln Drying section was only added not so long ago.

I couldn't find this video again until recently, as there's many videos of a similar theme, but not quite the same thing,
though to be honest, I normally end up watching sawmills instead, or if involving chainsaws, normally Bucking Billy Ray as he's entertaining
and really tries to share all his knowledge.

So...I clicked on this guy Advoko's video, and it was an enjoyable wee story of his journey of experimentation, comparing the usual Alaskan mill chainsaw
bar guide vs freehand.
He mentioned how much easier it were on the saw, which uses much less fuel, and that his more powerful saw on the bar, ended up failing on him as it was hard going.

He mentions a method of holding the timber at the ends, what looks like it might be improved upon, if one wished,
and swinging the saw letting gravity do the work, (I'll be looking at a few more of his vids to get a better impression on the start of the cut)
whilst specifically going into detail of only letting three teeth do the work, at the end of the bar, IIRC.
Though as mentioned, I need get a better impression of how he starts the cut, as most accidents involving peoples HEADS
are caused by the end of the saw, anything from the centreline up to the top of the bar is the dangerzone causing I presume what's also called a
climb cut.

So that's worth bearing in mind, I'm sure Buckin Billy Ray has some safety tips, and since he seems a bit of a risk taker being a lumberjack and all,
One would better keep their ears perked if he says something's dangerous, and best to get the opinion of safety from multiple sources though,
as that's a topic in itself.

I apologise if mentioning chainsaws here isn't on topic, and the main forum being correct place to post,
or should it be, by mentioning possibly dangerous methods of milling.
For instance, I know that things don't fly concerning some elements of the workshop, compared to the compliant regs from the HSE.
Not sure what the guides are really, but would lie to get some perspective of Advoko's method,
or infact if there's an equally effective method of milling with a chainsaw.

I don't have a need for all this, whatsoever, I might add, and have plenty of reclaimed timber to last me a good while,
and the only native or home grown species I encounter is normally sawn rounds, so could choose to go the Follansbee method
with plenty of sweat, before easy going feeding through the bandsaw thereafter.
Just for interests sakes really.
But, should something crop up what's much longer than I'd dare split, heavier than I'd attempt lifting,
or for what other reason unknown likely aplenty, what would require milling on site, then I'd like to know some folks thoughts on the video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qz64ELkxdA

Alas I see this video is not very new, and indeed he has some more thoughts or rigs on the subject, which I must watch,
so I suppose I'll have to get back to this post, and perhaps wish to ask about something specific,
but should someone keep up to date on his stuff, and have some opinion of something or other, and/or other suggestions
then I'm all ears.

Old computer near crashed getting the video, so I'll post a screenshot of the video for someone.
Attachment 510165

All the best
Tom

Here's how one sawyer in Georgia does it for logs that are too big to fit on his LT70. He's come up with a more comfortable stance, and does this a fair amount of the time on large sinker Cypress logs. Fast forward to about 4:20 to start if you don't want to watch the whole thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjx8kjYy9RU&t=285s

I would say if you're not real comfortable running at least a 90cc saw, don't think about it.

Sawmill process he's using is called "reverse roll quarter sawing", if you watch it through the making boards part.

An enjoyable watch, from start to burgers,
though it may be a more comfortable stance, it's very different to what Advoko is doing in the video,
and the chips don't lie, in regards to efficiency.

I'm not saying it doesn't come with it's shortcomings, as I see Advoko has made some sort of auto feeding jiggery when I looked since.
Kinda suggests something possibly, so that's my entertainment sorted for the next while. :)

Tom

And there's always this way. All you need is an old 090.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kG7FFX5rNM

Oh yes Tom, now that's the stuff :)
Makes one wonder what the point is in making a bar guide.
Pretty brave guy too, barely holding it and he didn't leave much on the ends to hold the log together.

Not sure what saw I've got, it's a Stihl from the 70's or 80's with a 20" bar, the 051 perhaps, not sure.
It's got a cracked casing I believe, so needs attention, never needed to see if it could be fixed, as he's got a newer one, what's never seen a rip profiled chain before.
Normally the electric ones are used for small pruning, or fitting something on the log splitter.

I've only learned yesterday that there was a load of ash rounds in the bushes beside the road, which was in the way of the new route chosen for the neighbours phone line,
as I just assumed it was a mere hefty branch or two, and not 25" rounds, one long enough to do something with for fun.
I moved them inside the pretendcarwoodshedport, and contemplated that it might be worth quartersawing, but didn't think of painting/waxing the soaked ends, would probably need to dry off with the breeze in there first, anyways.
I'll probably just try splitting the one twentysomething, possibly thirty inch long piece, perhaps a foolish dip of the toe in regards to being sidetracked by the world of timber milling, haha
Be kinda nice to make something from it though.
Couldn't get the missus to stick around with the camera, and took this before getting my hands too dirty.
Attachment 510170

Looks like those candles I've got will come to good use.
Tom

Here's one of the ones I was looking for. I had to put bare feet in the search.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwZLmAT4I3c

Seems the guy in the second video had better results,
but that could be for lots of reasons, my first instinct was the chain needed sharpening,
which goes without saying really.
Still looks a bit variable even with, but the most notable being the long bar being used in this technique.
I'll have to look at Advoko's videos again, but it seemed like he had a shorter bar...
which may well be the reasoning for the emphasised swinging, compared to letting a longer bar sink down from the front whilst
cutting fore and aft with more teeth in the cut.

Plus one small example of why one might want chainsaw rated gear, wouldn't be fond of getting a chain to the face.
Cheers
Tom

18 in Works electric saw.. $75 bucks... 12 ft by 21in round..2 logs. Took more passes than a real saw would I'm sure. I used the end of the bar (could not have used the entire flat as it would bog down) and sharpend to the correct angle worked much better than expected and didn't kill the saw! I also used a plombob line to line the cut... ran the saw about 1/2in. from string.I also found you will get much crud between the bar and chain bearing upfront, so I had to make a very thin pick from a band saw blade to clear that out, otherwise impossible to clear out.

That's something which I've not found anything on Raul, the sharpening of the chain.
Is there any difference between one suited for ripping vs crosscutting i.e Buckin Billy Ray for instance.

I did see various Stihl chains, but those seemingly for reducing the grabbiness?

Not got that lump of ash yet, and it might have cracked by now...
If not, might have a go with various saws, interesting tool using the bandsaw blades, might try that too.

All the best
Tom

You can buy ripping chains. The cutters are indeed shaped differently than regular chains. Check on Bailey's online store.

https://www.baileysonline.com/chains...saw-chain.html

Thanks for the link Tom,
Interesting to see, as I've never sought out the likes before.

I see low profile mentioned on a few, which I can only guess is referring to the height of the tooth.
They all seem to have a sloped gullet, the polar opposite of Billy Ray's routine.

IIRC, have I read before that the teeth on a rip chain is not angled, but filed straight across?
To the unfamiliar eye, as I haven't looked for better photos of these chains yet, it kinda looks like it could be possible to fettle an old crosscutting chain
for the job, which I can only presume makes for lousy performance, or there would be more folk having a bash.
Looks like I got me some research to do on the matter.

Attachment 512933

Thanks again
Happy new year, and all the best.

Tom

All the cutters aren’t filed straight across. If I’m remembering correctly it’s every third one.

Google ripping chain geometry and there are a bunch of different ways people do it.

From my memory
Ripping chain is 10 degrees every other and a straight accross raker
Cross cut is 30 degrees every other.

There are many profiles people use

Thanks folks, gonna try find a good sharpening video, but think I'll have to study the regular crosscut chains hanging about in more detail,
to see if they could possibly be made somewhat suitable for the job.

Suppose it may be my cookies, but not getting many hits of this being done, or using a ripping chain,
but then again, I wasn't sure of the right terminology to use before.
Cheers
Happy new year
Tom