Bought a motor - now I need to build a boat

Yesterday I came across a deal I couldn't pass up: a 1954 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 HP outboard in absolutely outstanding condition. For $250, I got the motor and the tank. Looks like it has only a few hours on it and I don't know how long it's been since it was last run. See pictures below.

So now I need a boat to put it on. I built one small boat several years back, but I was quite unskilled at the time and it never made it to the water. I think I'll lean towards a design like the Glen-L 11' Utility. I'm deep in the neanderthal world, with no stationary power tools, so I don't know whether to go the plywood route or traditional planking. I'd like to build something with only hand tools, of which I have a full set.

Several questions and ALL thoughts/comments welcome. In central florida, what's the best lumber for boat building? I've got a local sawyer that can probably get me enough live oak to make what I need if it isn't too heavy. Probably cypress for planking and live oak for frames. Any thoughts on the best boat designs for a motor like this? Fresh water lakes/rivers for general exploratory outings. I'm extremely ignorant when it comes to outboard motors. I'm quite mechanically inclined and all my cars are well maintained, but I have NO clue where to start with this motor. What to do before starting it for the first time, maintenance, etc. Any good reference material on this subject?

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Quite a find, I'm envious! I'm thinking this site might be right up your alley.....Here's a link; http://svensons.com/boat/

Enjoy,

Mac

Hey Ben-
Nice motor! Last year I purchased a '57 Evinrude Fisherman that is pretty much your motor's cousin. After replacing the electrics and head gasket, I could not believe that it started up on the first pull. I guess these guys are built to last.
Best of luck with it!

Beautiful motor, Ben. I'm new here and this is my first post (I'll look for an introductions thread too).
I have a 1954 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 h.p. that is virtually the twin of your Johnson. This is one of those true gems that lends credence to the phrase "they don't make them like that anymore". I have the identical tank as well but of course mine has the Evinrude Cruise-A-Day graphics instead. Notice how the tank primes with a plunger right on the tank as opposed to a ball on the gas line. Also notice the dual gas line as opposed to the single line used by other manufacturers, actually one is the fuel line and the other is the air line (more on this later).
I highly recommend that you DO NOT try to start this motor yet. This is because of today's modern fuel and you will have problems due to Ethanol. You will have to make some upgrades because Ethanol eats rubber and because of this there is a RISK OF FIRE. Replace the old gaskets with modern equivalents and you'll be fine.

Back in the 50's when your motor was new one did not get gas for their boat down at the local service station where you fill up your car. Gasoline for automobiles in those days was referred to as "regular" and contained lead, this would harm an outboard motor. Gasoline for boats was sold at marinas and referred to as "marine white" which contained no lead. During the 70's when unleaded gasoline was introduced "regular" still meant the old leaded gas until it was completely phased out and once that happened "unleaded" of course became known simply as "regular". If you had a newer car in the 70's when not every station had the new gas you had to make sure you were getting "unleaded" gas. Once the older leaded gas no longer existed the term "marine white" was no longer used because now there was no difference in the gas at the service station and the gas at the marina. The new "unleaded" gasoline and "marine white" are one and the same.
So everything was fine for the owners of these older outboards all through the rest of the 70's, the 80's and 90's and of course when everything is going along just fine the government has to come along and complicate things.
Now we have Ethanol. Because it eats rubber it will destroy your gaskets and O rings and leak all over the outside of your outboard. Ugh! All is not lost though, as I said above you can replace them. This includes the tank and the gas/air line too. You can keep the fuel system in it's original forced air configuration but it is relatively easy to convert to the MUCH SAFER single line modern fuel system and get away from using a pressurized tank (they can explode).
Believe it or not you may be able to get the parts you need at your local auto parts store and any Evinrude/Johnson dealer will have what you need. You can get a service manual on CD here~
(also take note of the fuel system conversion outlined on this site)

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...ce_Manuals.htm

Or you may stil be able to get the actual paperback manual, if it is now out of print it hasn't been for long. Used copies should be easy to get.

Also I highly recommend you become acquainted with these fine folks~

http://www.aomci.org/

If all of this seems daunting don't let it discourage you. The maintenance required to modernize your old outboard is not overly complicated or difficult. Ebay is awash in any parts you might need.
I love my little Fleetwin and it's a real head turner. People comment on it and compliment it everywhere I take it. I love that it weighs so little which makes transporting it easy. Also I love the fact that it has forward, neutral and reverse. This is uncommon in most outboards of this size. You won't be pulling any water skiers but it will move a small boat along just fine. These old Evinrude/Johnsons are built like Swiss watches and will purr like a kitten all day long. Mine starts on the second pull at first when cold. After that it fires right up on the first pull for the rest of the day.

Cheers!

A classic boat design would fit a classic outboard perfectly.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../392848652.jpg

David Mede on the Woodenboat forum built this Atkin-designed skiff from red cedar over Doug Fir. You have cypress or white cedar over either Live Oak or more cypress used for framing in a slightly thicker scantling. Just don't try to use Live Oak for the transom as it's not seasonally stable.

Here are the plans:

http://www.atkinboatplans.com/Oar/MaudeAndEmeline.html

This is a basic, flatiron skiff perfect for Florida's shallow water and an easy build. The forefoot design where stem meets keelson and chines is the best I've ever seen on these boats, and I've copied it ever since.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2127/...2034bf98_o.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../210024843.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dan OHare

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Fantastic information here. I really appreciate it. I haven't tried to start this motor yet, and I'll definitely go through the tune-up list before I do. I'm pretty excited about getting this thing running in a trash can soon!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Smalser

A classic boat design would fit a classic outboard perfectly.

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I like it. Now I'm even more conflicted on what boat will fit best. I may end up doing a plywood boat first just because it's fast and it will get me on the water, and then doing a nice lapstrake boat after to really fit the classic style.

I think cypress will definitely be the lumber of choice for my boat. It's local, virtually rot-proof, strong enough, and lightweight. The lightweight part will be the key. I think my little 5.5 will need all the help it can get after I put me, the wife, 2 dogs, and camping gear in front of it.

RE: Bought a motor - now I need to build a boat.

If I'd read that anywhere but in a woodworking forum, I'd reply with, "Don't forget to dig a lake".

I can remember my father had an old Johnson just like that one. He had another old one too. I think it was an "Elgin".

Bob,
I always enjoy your postings here. I have a question; In the (2) bottom pictures, I'll guess this is your work, can you explain the method of construction of bottom? What type of seal between bottom and sides?
Thanks,
Mac

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Smalser

A classic boat design would fit a classic outboard perfectly.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../392848652.jpg

David Mede on the Woodenboat forum built this Atkin-designed skiff from red cedar over Doug Fir. You have cypress or white cedar over either Live Oak or more cypress used for framing in a slightly thicker scantling. Just don't try to use Live Oak for the transom as it's not seasonally stable.

Here are the plans:

http://www.atkinboatplans.com/Oar/MaudeAndEmeline.html

This is a basic, flatiron skiff perfect for Florida's shallow water and an easy build. The forefoot design where stem meets keelson and chines is the best I've ever seen on these boats, and I've copied it ever since.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2127/...2034bf98_o.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../210024843.jpg

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Bottom sealing? Simple. Those are caulking seams with a seam compound on top. Here are some examples:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../306698154.jpg

A couple shavings are taken off each adjoining plank side (these are half-inch planks) so the bottom third of the planks abut each other tightly and the opening is around an 8th-inch and wedge-shaped so driving in the cotton lightly tightens the entire plank structure.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../397678693.jpg

Each plank-to-plank joint gets a caulking seam. This is an older boat with the seam compound removed so the old caulking can be tightened. The beauty of such a bottom system is that it's fully adjustable for tightness, and lighter planks can be used because the caulking welds them into a strong unit.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../397667223.jpg

The side-to-bottom joint also gets a caulking seam. Here some cotton was pulled out for inspection and is being replaced.

The only special tool required for a small boat is one, 7-dollar caulking iron. Any woodworking mallet will work fine on small jobs. And after soaking the cotton in thinned red lead or copper bottom paint, I generally use inexpensive poly plumber's caulk as a seam compound:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/.../397711601.jpg

Bob,
Thanks for the pictures and explanation. Am I correct in stating with the poly seam sealer in place, there is no need to swell the joints with water to seal in the spring time?

Mac

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mac McQuinn

Am I correct in stating with the poly seam sealer in place, there is no need to swell the joints with water to seal in the spring time?

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All the poly does is protect the cotton, which is waht renders the boat watertight. Properly done...and it isn't difficult at all...these boats won't leak a drop.

Thanks for clearing this up Bob,
Mac