Help with Wolverine style sharpening jig

I just upgraded from an old wood homemade sharpening jig to Grizzlies verwon of the wolverine jig.

So far I'm very impressed.

I remember seeing people talk about methods for getting things back in the same position but couldn't find any posts. What are you suggestions to keep consistent tool overhang (amount of bowl gouge that sticks out of jig) distance for the jig arm to stick out, and angle of bowl gouge jig. One thing I noticed on the grizzly is the bowl gouge jig doesn't have detents its just an angle adjust, if I score a line with a knife etc for different angles would that be close enough or next time I have free shipping just order another?

Any other tips or video to watch is appreciated.

For setback distances for inserting gouges either drill a hole in a block of wood at the depth you want or screw down a block on your bench top at the correct distance. For angles on the gouge support, you can drill through the rotating part of the fixture then keep the drill handy and insert the butt end of it it back into the hole to fix the angle when resetting it. To set the distance of the V support from the wheel I use either a block of wood or a piece of aluminum angle that drops over the bar to set the distance. You want to avoid having to make measurements as much as possible!

I don't have a good trick for the platform angle, I mark my tool with a sharpie and then test the angle hand-turning the wheel. I keep it tight and tap the front or back edge until the wheel removes the sharpie mark completely.

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Originally Posted by roger wiegand

For setback distances for inserting gouges either drill a hole in a block of wood at the depth you want or screw down a block on your bench top at the correct distance. For angles on the gouge support, you can drill through the rotating part of the fixture then keep the drill handy and insert the butt end of it it back into the hole to fix the angle when resetting it. To set the distance of the V support from the wheel I use either a block of wood or a piece of aluminum angle that drops over the bar to set the distance. You want to avoid having to make measurements as much as possible!


I don't have a good trick for the platform angle, I mark my tool with a sharpie and then test the angle hand-turning the wheel. I keep it tight and tap the front or back edge until the wheel removes the sharpie mark completely.

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Thanks Your suggestions are similar to what I was thinking. Are there standards/recommended lengths/angles? I have a Benjamin's best kit with a 5/8 bowl gouge with a more Blunt grind and a 1/2 in with a fingernail grind. Normally use the 5/8 to rough out and 1/2 for shap8ngþfinish work.

You probably can get twice as many recommendations on setups as there are turners in the world but here is one that some follow and is a good starting place. You can tweak it as you get experience if you want.
https://thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening/

Well, I'm with Roger on this, measure as little as possible.
Use setup blocks everywhere you can

I use this for setting the position of the tool in the grinding jig. https://lylejamieson.com/product/2-i...ing-jig-guide/ I did put a piece of copper on the end because after a bit a small hole developed in the end from the tip of gouges hitting it. Consistency is your goal.

I waited several years trying to save money thinking I’d make my own, but recently purchased a couple different raptor angle jigs and the 2” gouge guide for my bowl, spindle and detail gouges. I used to not want to switch between grinding different tools but now it is immediate and accurate. While they are more expensive than I’d like, I’m glad I bought them. I had made some similar jigs out of wood but the depth jig was slowly getting worn deeper and deeper and the angle jig only worked for one tool but someone with more experience could easily make their own out of metal….i just never got around to it so finally I bought them.

Tom

I made the Captain Eddie Castelin/David Ellsworth version. The dimensions available on-line seem to be lacking a bit so I position the "heal" of my jig at 6" rather than 7" to get the grind that I prefer. The jig itself is non-adjustable, but the tool overhang and distance from the wheel can change the shape of the grind substantially. It works well (enough) and - - most importantly - - provides repeatable results.

For adjusting the overhang, all I needed to do was to measure and mark a 2" line from the edge of the grinder platform. Then I screwed an L-bracket at the 2" mark. Works great.

Eventually when my Alum. oxide wheels wear down a bit, I'll probably buy a CBN wheel.

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Originally Posted by Brice Rogers

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Eventually when my Alum. oxide wheels wear down a bit, I'll probably buy a CBN wheel.

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Stone wheel wear is a reason you cannot just "set it and forget it" but the rate of wear depends on usage.

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Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80

I waited several years trying to save money thinking I’d make my own, but recently purchased a couple different raptor angle jigs and the 2” gouge guide for my bowl, spindle and detail gouges. I used to not want to switch between grinding different tools but now it is immediate and accurate. While they are more expensive than I’d like, I’m glad I bought them. I had made some similar jigs out of wood but the depth jig was slowly getting worn deeper and deeper and the angle jig only worked for one tool but someone with more experience could easily make their own out of metal….i just never got around to it so finally I bought them.

Tom

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When I get the setting I want I then make my own templates so that I can quickly setup again to get that grind if the settings have been changed.

Nothing grand, just a bit of ply or block of wood cut to length...

Attachment 512215

Attachment 512218

Attachment 512217

The plywood profiles are is used for going between different grinders, slides and wheels. The wheels are either CBN or diamond, so wheel wear is not a factor.

The setting blocks are used on particular slides. I have three different slide styles. The blocks are the quickest at resetting the required slide length.