I'm looking for tips/ideas on how to mark a curved bottom rail to be cut on the bandsaw. I attached a dresser pic as an example of what I'm planning to do. Specifically, how do you draw the curve to be cut?
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I'm looking for tips/ideas on how to mark a curved bottom rail to be cut on the bandsaw. I attached a dresser pic as an example of what I'm planning to do. Specifically, how do you draw the curve to be cut?
Easiest way is to use a thin strip of material bent between two points.
You can use a thin piece of wood or plastic with a string tied to each end. Tighten the string for more curve. There are some of these available to buy if you want a jig that is a little nicer. I believe fast cap makes one.
Make a drawing bow. Lots of ways to do it, (google it) but it's just a thin strip of uniform grain wood. fix the two ends with a cord or by driving nails into the wood, then bow out the middle the desired amount and drive in another brad to hold it. Trace the curve onto the workpiece and have at it.
The will give you a fair (evenly proportioned) curve. If you want something different, you can use additional brads to give inflection points.
Takes extra steps than the other methods suggested, but previously I've taken the design from SketchUp where I do my modeling/planning, export the piece as a DXF, then print at 1:1 scale (either print on multiple sheets or have it printed on a large format printer at Kinkos). I glue that to a piece of MDF and then cut a template which I use for the final piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott vroom
This works for me since I already have the piece designed, and I like having the template to get a look at things before commmiting on the final piece. And there are added benefits for anything where there are multiples or something I may make again in the future.
A further advantage of making a template is that you can work until you have a fair curve, even if it's slightly different than originally drawn. When you cut the actual workpiece using a template routing bit it will be an exact duplicate with a nice, smooth curve. 1/4" MDF makes great template material.
John
John makes a very important point....in the end, the "visual" is the bottom line and being able to tweak things in that respect before committing to the expensive material is a really important thing.
I draw out one half of the curve to a shape I like then make an mdf template, two identical pieces.
Open up the two template haves for a perfectly symmetrical curve and you're ready to go
I used to have to do a lot of those. Found ,in a magazine, a way to strike the bow easily at exactly the wanted height and length. And If had
to do another one now…I would have to find it again.
If you are going to use curves extensively, it may make sense to buy drawing bows. These, from Lee Valley, are very useful. There is a symmetric and an asymmetric version...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...y-drawing-bows
Mike
Good idea. The stuff I make usually ends up with an arch or bow like Vroom is making. I generally fight with a long strip of 1/8" wood or a 48" sheet metal layout rule to mark the board with a combination of finish nails, clamps, etc to mark the board.... Then cut it on a bandsaw, then use a belt sander to smooth the radius. That was a PITA, so I started making 1/4" templates using the same marking technique. Then I can use a flush trim router bit on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward Weber
I can't believe I've not ever heard of a "drawing bow" before. So simple, such a great idea. I'm totally going to make one today. I'm currently building two cabinets that will have an arched rail at the bottom.
The stick method works if it is evenly pliable and at least 18 inches or more “too long “ on both ends. Using a stick that is just long enough often makes
for too straight ends. I see those immediately. Destroys the needed grace. Too many expensive neighborhoods with an unnecessary
obvious flaw.