Window buck trim?

I just replaced my basement buck windows with vinyl inserts. There’s still an ugly metal buck showing that I need to trim out.

From the back of the window to the front edge of drywall, it’s 13.5”. The window itself is about 14x31”.

I have two questions for you pros!

1: what material would you choose to trim out the window with? The 13.5” gap from the window to the drywall means I can’t really use regular stock wood. So how about plywood? Pvc? Other options?

2: The bottom of the steel buck slants downwards. Would you follow that slant downwards (so the drywall side has a bigger opening than the window side, adding more light?) Or would it look better just being a standard box (90* angles all around)

Investigate Sapele wood. IIRC, I is a preferred outdoor wood.

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Originally Posted by lowell holmes

Investigate Sapele wood. IIRC, I is a preferred outdoor wood.

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I’ll look into it; but this will be for an interior trim piece. I’m sure moisture will be an issue with condensation, but I’ll see what the local yards have for it.

Several ways to skin this cat.

Solid lumber can be glued-up to width.
Some home centers sell already-glued-up planks for shelving in 16" widths
Plywood would work. I would edge-band with some solid stock (not the iron-on veneer, but a min. 1/4" strip of solid lumber). Be sure to seal well against moisture.
An exterior-grade mdf (like Extira) would work.

As for the sloped sill-- I'd be inclined (no pun intended) to keep it level so it could act as a shelf, but it's totally a "dealer's choice" decision.

Andrew, I've used Azek PVC trim pieces for outdoor trim as well as boots for siding protrusions. Very easy to work with (messy, but...), glues up well to make any size piece you need and machines with regular woodworking tools. They sell solid sheets goods in may sizes and dimensions and trim pieces in 3 1/2" widths that glue up nicely. Obviously never rots and is impervious to moisture. I have even made PVC domino's to use to attach 90 degree corners. Expensive, but is a trouble free product. While you don't need to, it also paints well, just make sure you use a vinyl safe paint (Sherwin Williams has one). Good luck.

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Originally Posted by Eric Anderson

Andrew, I've used Azek PVC trim pieces for outdoor trim as well as boots for siding protrusions. Very easy to work with (messy, but...), glues up well to make any size piece you need and machines with regular woodworking tools. They sell solid sheets goods in may sizes and dimensions and trim pieces in 3 1/2" widths that glue up nicely. Obviously never rots and is impervious to moisture. I have even made PVC domino's to use to attach 90 degree corners. Expensive, but is a trouble free product. While you don't need to, it also paints well, just make sure you use a vinyl safe paint (Sherwin Williams has one). Good luck.

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I was looking at it as well.... the local orange big box has it (at a cost), but at least it’s in stock.

Do you just glue with PVC cement?

any issues with sagging?

If you use PCV ,paint it. It's expensive stuff,make the thieves think you used wood. EXTERA is indeed a good product but you would likely have to buy a whole sheet. You could glue canvas to G1S plywood and paint it, but every idea here must get some votes to be deemed worthy. But it's an old idea, quite weather proof and easily found on you tube.

If there is a building materials recycling place near you, Quartz, or solid surface countertop material makes great basement window stools. Some such places sell remnants, or even pieces torn out of a remodeling job pretty cheap. Corian, and those types can be worked with woodworking blades, and router bits, but I keep those separate from my good ones for woodworking. Quartz requires diamond blades. I keep a cheap circular saw for such cutting, and use a water hose for dust control running water on the surface.

Plywood is common for basement extension jambs. Honestly drywall returns are the most common in my area, none of the new construction production builders use wood returns since window casing is an upgrade.

Hardie plank siding is what we used to match some 1970's maosnite paneling in the den. We were going to paint it all anyway. I would consider tile or pergo flooring which can be a full mud job or just some silicone to stick it down.
Bill D

They make a special glue with a longer open time. Regular PVC cement is too fast