Before fastening on the top, I applied finish to everything - the cabinet, the shelves and the top. I rubbed on two coats of shellac, sanding with 220 grit lightly between each coat. Then I applied an oil/ urethane by hand, sanding with 220 between each coat. After the second coat of oil/urethane, I attached the top and applied the third coat. Once dry, I buffed the finish out with 0000 steel wool, installed the door knobs and hung the adjustable shelves.
Here's the finished project.
Well, I was on the home stretch. I had the two doors to make, the shelves for the three bays, the top and finish left to do.
I wanted inset doors with book matched straight panels to match the sides and to give the piece its Shaker inspiration. I followed the same preparation and construction practices as the sides, trying to be conscious of the grain pattern in the Cherry and Maple. After gluing up the doors, I cut the stiles to length and fit the doors by shimming them until I got
The two back panels and the two interior panels were made of sugar maple. The two back panels were made of 2 boards glued on edge and joined with biscuits. The two interior panels were made 3 boards glued on edge and joined with biscuits. The interior panels would separate the three bays. After the panels were glued up, I hand planed them across grain to flatten the boards out. Once flat, I planed with the grain to smooth
Once I had the legs, top rails and bottom rails dry fitted, I began working on the panels. There are, all told, ten panels on this piece. Six of them I bookmatched in Curly Maple. This was my first experience with bookmatching, and I'll share what I learned.
First off, its a wicked good time! The process of essentially cutting a board open and discovering what the grain looks like is thrilling. I chose Curly Maple for my bookmatched panels. My panels needed to be roughly 7 in by 19
As I continued to scratch my head over how to cut the cove on the top rails, I remembered reading about cutting coves on the table saw in Wood Magazine, by running material across the blade at an angle. The challenge then turned to essentially cutting a half cove. Because I wanted the base of the top rail to sit flush with the inset door fronts and the top rail to "cove outward" similarly to the profile of the leg flare, I had to come up with a way to support the base of the rail while