Guys I may have messed up. My variable speed acted up today. Would go from 0 to 2700 RPM’s. I ordered a new speed unit. Whatever it’s called. The P word. Anyway I was taking it all apart and took the switch apart. Didn’t get it back together correctly I guess and when I plugged the unit in and tried to turn it on I heard a pop. Now I’ve got the back panel off and I am not sure how to access the fuse. I’m sure I blew it. It’s got a dial and I don’t want to touch any of it. Any recommendations?
I would reach out to members who has replaced one and do a zoom meeting to go over your wiring. Any members who replaced their pots willing to do a zoom meeting to look over the wiring? I have not replaced my pot or I would do it. I can do a meeting to go over my wiring if you think it will help reach out via text to 816-368-1775 if you want to do it.
The G0766 has a circuit breaker on the front of the headstock. Did you push it in to try a reset? Also, the speed control [potentiometer is not hard to replace if you burned it out. I have a thread with description here on the GGMG . https://sawmillcreek.org/group.php?discussionid=1963&do=discuss https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment....1&d=1546969238
PART 1. What Jeremy wrote is puzzling. My comments are in line and in bold He said: "Guys I may have messed up. My variable speed acted up today. Would go from 0 to 2700 RPM’s. (SOUNDS LIKE A BAD POTENTIOMETER). I ordered a new speed unit. (SPEED UNIT?) Whatever it’s called. The P word. (SUGGESTS THAT HE MAY HAVE BEEN REFERRING TO THE POTENTIOMETER). Anyway I was taking it all apart and took the switch apart. (TOOK THE SWITCH APART? THE MASTER POWER SWITCH, THE POTENTIOMETER, THE FORWARD REVERSE SWITCH, THE CIRCUIT BREAKER? ) Didn’t get it back together correctly I guess and when I plugged the unit in and tried to turn it on I heard a pop. (IF JEREMY MISWIRED THE POTENTIOMER - - ONLY THREE CONNECTIONS - - I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW IT COULD RESULT IN A POP UNLESS THE POT WAS TURNED DOWN TO ZERO AND HE PUT THE +10 VOLT WIRE ON THE "WIPER". THAT WOULD HAVE SHORTED THE 10VOLT SUPPLY.
PART 2: I SUPPOSE THAT IT COULD HAVE FRIED THE INPUT TO THE INVERTOR. YIKES!) Now I’ve got the back panel off and I am not sure how to access the fuse. I’m sure I blew it. (IF THERE IS A FUSE, THAT WOULD BE GREAT) It’s got a dial (HUH?) and I don’t want to touch any of it. Any recommendations? THIS IS A BIT HARD TO FOLLOW. WHEN HE MENTIONED THAT HE TOOK THE SWITCH APART, I'M WONDERING WHAT IF HE ACTUALLY TOOK THE 220 VOLT MASTER POWER SWITCH APART. REPLACING THE POT IS PRETTY SIMPLE. BUT WHY WOULD HE CHOOSE TO TAKE THE SWITCH APART? I MIGHT BE ABLE TO TALK HIM THROUGH SOME REMOTE DIAGNOSIS BUT IF HE IS CALLING THE POTENTIOMETER A SWITCH OR SOMETHING ELSE, IT MIGHT BE A LOST CAUSE. WORSE CASE, HE HAS DESTROYED THE INVERTOR. BUT I SUSPECT THAT HE MAY NOT HAVE THE SKILL AND BACKGROUND TO REPLACE IT. I'M NOT TRYING TO BE CRITICAL...JUST MY PERSONAL OBSERVATION.
Part 3: I'm wondering if grizzly offers out-of-warranty service to fix things that a well-meaning owner has inadvertantely totally messed up? I suppose that worst case he could have grizzly send him out a new complete headstock. But i think that the cost of that is over $1k.
I sure hope he has not fried the inverter on his lathe. I would not think a likely scenario, but if he could take some pics an post them, we would have a better idea of what he might have done. I'm puzzled also, Bruce. One should always take a few pics before attempting the repair with their cell phone just in case they are unfamiliar with the wiring, so they can get it back like factory had it.
Sorry guys, I’ve been out of town. So I took the main on/off switch apart. I did it to get the cover off. There is not much room to work. The springs in the on/ off switch came out and i wasn’t sure I got it together correctly. When I reinstalled the main power switch I wired it incorrectly when installing it and heard a pop. Turns out the breaker blew. I was able to get the unit to turn on after wiring it up correctly. Now I just need to fix the variable speed. The potentiometer will be here Tuesday. Hopefully that fixes the problem. Thanks for the responses.
Jeremy, there is a strain relief black plastic nut on each of the wires going into the headstock. Loosen them, and push the wires inside the headstock to give yourself more room to pull the electrical box out of the headstock, and more room to replace the pot. after buttoned up, you can return the excess wire back out of the headstock.
Thanks for the feedback, Jeremy. Glad to read that it is running again. When I replaced my potentiometer, all I had to do was remove the four phillips head screws and the panel cover comes off. It helps to push the black cables into the headstock to give you a little more slack in the wiring. I did not find it necessary to mess with the main on/off switch. The potentiometer comes with color-coded pigtails. As long as you keep the colors matched, you shouldn't have a problem. At one point when I was ordering something from Griz, I bought a couple of spare pots, and spares for the on-off switch and the forward/rev. switch. They were cheap and I didn't want to risk them not being in stock at some future point in time. Good luck, Jeremy.
