Has anyone else had trouble with the lock levers on their Grizzly machines? These are the cast handles that tighten the quill and the tool post, part no. 13 (tool rest lock lever) and 19 (quill lock lever) on the G0698. I've replaced both now, at my own expense. I ordered two for the tool rest, just to be prepared. The handles seem to be cast from some inferior metal, which gets reamed out with use. This is a common way to tighten all sorts of machines. I'm wondering if there may be another source with better quality. Any ideas? Or am I the only one?
Doug, I gather by reamed out with use you mean the inside hex surface of the zinc casting wears against the hex shank of the steel stud? Our G0733 uses the same parts. Haven't had the problem, but then it's only 1-1/2 years old. I checked the sizing of the parts on our lathe. The threaded portion of the stud on the quill lock handle measures 10mm x 1.5 x 20mm, but the last 3mm are turned down to 7mm to fit into the slot in the quill. So that might be tough to match in an aftermarket handle. The tool rest lock handle looks like the same part, but with the last 3mm ground off at the factory so that the 10mm stud is flush at 17mm. At least it looks like that's what they've done, judging from the dimensions and the grinding marks. A good source for specialty fasteners for me has always been Reid Supply, so I checked their web site. [continued]
They have a variety in that thread size and nominal stud length (say 20mm) at this page: http://www.reidsupply.com/products/k...4and4294926830 I notice that most of their lock handles use a zinc alloy for the handle portion. A few are reinforced plastic. They also show some with steel and even stainless steel handles, for considerably more $. David
Thanks, David. Yes, to clarify, the steel stud is holding up well, it is the handle that fails. I will check out the link, but if the expense is too great, I may just keep replacing the Grizzly part as long as it is available or until it is improved. The whole assembly is about $7.50. You may want to use some thread lock on the screw that holds the handle in place, if my experience is any indication.
Yes, I have replaced the toolrest handle once, and the tailstock lock twice, for the same failure mode. The latest handles that Grizz sent me are not like the previous versions. The earlier version was all-plastic (I think); these newer ones are cast metal in the all-important hex socket. Just got them a month ago, so too early to tell how these new ones hold up. Incidentally, there's a third one of these same handles on the lathe - on the motor belt tension lock. Since that one gets far less use than the other two, I treated it as my emergency spare.
Doug........from my understanding, the lock handles on the Grizzly lathes are identical to the ones on the PM3520b. I have turned on 6 different 3520 machines and the handles are identical to ours. That being said, I think this is one of the weaker areas of most lathes. My G0698 is 4 years old now, and all my handles are just fine. I do however pay close attention to the way I use them........ The key is to make sure you allow the handle to seat back all the way on the gears on the stud.......the socket and the stud must mate up on the gear inside. I inspect my handles frequently, and have had to put the spring back all the way into the unit a few times. Hope this helps!
I meant to write in my last comment that the gear inside is prone to strip out if the socket is not seated all the way on the stud.........careful attention to this can avoid having to replace the handles.........at least it has worked well for me!
Thanks for all the comments. The new ones came and I haven't had time to even take them out of the plastic bag. I've been busy with some flatwork. I had assumed that the old and new handles were one casting. I will take a look to see if they are plastic with a metal insert. If a steel hex socket is embedded in a plastic handle, it might be an improvement. Roger, I agree it is probably my technique - I stripped the old one trying to secure the McNaughton tool rest, which requires a very tight lock. John, I forgot about the one on the motor mount. I'll remember that for the next emergency.
Doug......you could also get a bolt of the correct size and thread [metric?] for the motor tensioner and use the one on the motor permanently if needed........just an idea. The local hardware store will probably have a correct size and thread bolt that would mate up well.
