Have been using my faceplate that came with the g0766 and was wondering what others are using for screws? I've been using a better quality I think deck screw with a square drive but earlier I stripped out two of them got frustrated and quit for the night. I'd like to find something in stainless steel with a hex head so I can use a nut driver on them but I'm not sure if that animal exists. I'm not even sure what size would be the biggest for the holes because I just used what I had in the garage that fit. Thanks Sam
I use #12 stainless hex head machine screws, usually 1-3/4” length. Depending on how big and heavy the bowl blank, sometimes I use 2 1/4” . It means a little more tenon length material. Of course, I rough turn the big bowl on the face plate, then switch over to the 4 jaw chuck, and properly turn the tenon for big bowls. When I core, the inside, I use the tenon and big chuck, with heavy dovetail jaws. Then I finish turn after the bowl has had time to dry for a few months.
You should be able to get the #12 screws at most quality hardware stores….not cheap, but the usually last for a while.
Machine screws with a point on the end? I see mcmaster carr has something called extreme strength stainless steel supposed to be equivalent to grade 9 it says. Didn't know there was a grade 9. Learn something new every day. "For strength comparable to that of Grade 9 steel and the corrosion resistance of stainless steel, choose these screws. They are work-hardened for extreme strength and can be used in heavy duty stamping applications as well as earth-moving machinery, such as bulldozers and excavators. The flange distributes pressure where the screw meets the surface, eliminating the need for a separate washer. Head height includes the flange. Length is measured from under the flange."
High-Strength 410 Stainless Steel, Number 10 Size, 1-1/2" Long Flanged Hex Head Screws for Sheet Metal found this on mcmaster-carr Longest/biggest they had or at least I found. wonder if lowes or menards has similar?
Sam, the screws that you've identified appear to be very strong. If you can find them, you can't go wrong. I've been using deck screws. They too are hardened but I don't know to what degree. I suspect that Roger's suggestion of a #12 screw with a hex head might be a better and safer choice than what I've been using, and I'm guess that it would work well for you. Whenever I can, especially without out-of-balance logs that I'm roughing, I make use of the tailstock with a live center and keep the RPM fairly low until it gets more in balance. That'll reduce the stress on the screw and wood. Also, when I use screws with dry wood, I'll drill a pilot hole. That will reduce the amount of force that you need to apply and will reduce the chance of stripping out the screw head. I'm surprised that you stripped out a square head screw. I think that they were developed to be stronger than a Phillips head. I'd double check to make sure that your tool bit is the right size and not worn.
It was a couple up next to the collar and the drill was at an angle and bit was worn and so on. I have an excuse for everything! Also I got in a hurry..<<< Main reason.
I use #10 or #12 sheetmetal screws. They can be had with either a Phillips head or a hex head. Available at the BORG or Lowes
I ended up buying some stainless #12 sheet metal, a set with phillips and then a set of hex with a slot. I would have preferred the ones without the slot because they had a better hex head on them but those were self drilling and I figured the hole would be too big in green wood. "Save big money at menards".... the guy who made that jingle had better have gotten paid.
Let us know how they work out for you…
