Heavy Metal Back in October, I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on a Welding machine. I've wanted one for years, and thought I'm not getting any younger, so I got a Miller Multimatic - Multi-Process welder. This is my first project, and while it is not perfect, it is purely functional, and structurally sound. I'm just learning to weld, and the days I fabricated this was cold and windy, and because my shop is tiny, I had to do this outside, and used flux core welding wire, which also produces the most welding spatter, and wind just creates it's own set of problems. This is based on Jeff Nichol's design, with a couple of modifications. The arm at upper left can be placed anywhere you want, and it can be configured as either a 4 wheel steady, or a 3 wheel. This is a 24" steady for my G0800 lathe, as my other one is too small for it.
See photos of the steady in the pics section of this group.
Nice going, Roger. You're going to get good use from it. How do you convert it from 3 arms to 4? Do you unbolt a bracket or ? If I am holding a piece of wood that it at or close to its final finish, I'll typically run a ring of masking tape on the wood where the wheels contact it. Make sure that you wrap it in the right direction. That helps immensely to keep the wood from being rubbed, marked or compressed. On my Christmas "wish list" is a TIG welder. I'm told that even a monkey can make decent looking welds with TIG. But, I'm reluctant to spend those $$ on an occasional hobby thing. Enjoy your new tool. End of part 1
Part 2 and conclusion of post. I'm a beginning welder too. I have a cheap HF wire feed and a Lincoln stick welder. For splatter, it can be reduced if you hold the wire feed a little closer. Also, a few minutes with a wire brush and chisel will remove most of it. Some people will cover the area to be welded while they spray some "Pam" (a cooking oil in a spray can) on it. Then the dingleberries are unlikely to stick. But AC welding with a flux core wire is bound to have splatter. DC welding is a bit better. As long as it is strong and you have decent penetration it is just a cosmetic thing. There is an auto body filler (typically red) that is solvent based that you can smear on over the weld and after a coat of paint no one will know.... ;-)
Brice, my unit is a Miller Multimatic 215, which is a D/C inverter welder. It will do stick, mig, tig [I need to purchase the tig torch/gun for it] also stainless steel, aluminum and it has a couple other settings for certain alloys of steel. I thought about it and decided to go high end instead of HF, since it was likely to be my one welder for the rest of my life…not sure about that now, that I know more. I’m probaby going to get a plasma cutter at some point. I have some cans of spatter spray, also nozzle gel, and such.
To convert to 3 arm, I remove the arm at the 2 o’clock position, and the arm at the 10 o’clock position is adjustable anywhere you want it in case I want to use a laser arm with my hollowing rig. It has a welded up bracket made to attach by means of a screw on the back side, which also has a “T” handle on it like the front arm brackets do. I used 3/8” all thread and 3/8” round stock to make the t-screws. I tapped the 1/4” plate with 3/8” x 13 tpi tap to accommodate the 3/8” all-thread.
I added the Steady Rest I made, got a medal flange from McMaster Carr and other bits from local medal store. Guys this is way to go, don't build one out of wood this is very solid and did not cost that much. I am a newbie welder/professional grinder..
Has anyone stated how they are bending the angle iron in a circle? I stumbled on this late, but haven't seen that mentioned? I know the project is referenced to another built by Jeff Nichol's, but I am unfamiliar with that project?
Gary, the ring is a duct flange ring, and can be ordered from McMaster-Carr in different sizes to fit whatever size lathe you have. Google McMaster-Carr, then on their search bar type in “duct flange ring” and it should take you to them.
Can also be found at: https://www.blastgateco.com/Angle-Ring-Flanges.php
