Gene: After much study I have gotton away from what I call "permanent" finishs on casework. My decision process was primarily would I like to have a finish that will last a long time and be impossible to repair, or would I like a finish that won't last as long (possibly) but is really easy to repair. That has led to to using plain old lacquer on all non-furniture items, including casework. Lacquer has many benefits for the do it yourself type guys. If you screw up, simply sand it down and try again, whether it is in 15 minutes or 15 years. It works great with the Devilbiss guns. I typically use the "primer gun" because I save the "finish" gun for cars. I just built a big "built in" about 8' x 8' and finished the top of the base cabinets in urethane because I was worried about water rings etc. It got dented over the last month or so and has some scratches. If it was lacquer I could raise the dents, sand and respray and be good as new. Now I just have to live with it. Good luck
hi william. read your post about a devilbiss hvlp.... would like your advice, if you would. am refacing/redooring/drawer fronts my kitchen cabinets. your thoughts on type of finish to use, and how to apply. am intrigued by your comments about the devilbiss gun. seems like something like that is doable for me, price wise, and technically wise, with some practicel. i have used poly on the pullouts, which i have completed, but havent started the doors/drawer fronts yet, and willing to use any good product that an experienced person recommends.
