Conversation Between Matt Lau and Jim Matthews

14 Visitor Messages

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  1. I'm in Alameda, California.

    A solid bench would be much appreciated!
    As you may see from my thread, I'm going workbench crazy...thankfully, I'm done with taxes. Now, I need to update my HR knowledge.
  2. I'm slowly clearing shop space.
    Where is your shop?

    I've got a solid bench I could spare.
  3. The rotating mechanism means that storage, and seasonal adjustment of the "abutments" are not necessary. Every old Dai I toss on the burn pile and coffin smoother that fail break in the same place.

    I wouldn't make furniture with joints at short grain.
    It's structural, and fragile by design.

    Not to mention the difficulty.

    I can send pics of my feeble effort from my email,
    but not through SMC messages.

    anji12305@yahoo.com
  4. Thanks for the tips, and I look forward to seeing how your dai turns out.

    I think that I'll try and work on something a bit simpler first--some finger planes.
    I really need to build/buy a decent workbench or two prior to the planes.

    By the way, why a rotating mechanism? I thought part of the charm of a japanese dai is that there's very little wiggle room for error...it's carefully bedded to the block.

    Also, if you don't have one already, you might want to get a Japanese bevel plane.
    They are surprisingly awesome...even though it's a one trick pony. http://www.hidatool.com/woodworking/...-chamfer-plane
    Sometimes you can find them cheap on ebay or etsy...a little evaporust, and you're good to go.
  5. If your sacrificing an older jointer, I recommend cutting a fresh, new mortise. You'll get a better feel for fit, as you sneak up on the dimensions.

    Drop Steve Voigt or Dave Weaver a line on Woodcentral. What little I know was learned watching their struggle.

    FYI - my next Japanese style body will incorporate the rotating mechanism ECE uses on their wedge bodies. (Not their excellent, but fiddly spring loaded adjustment.)

    Kudos on making the effort
    Jim in Massachusetts
  6. The Mesquite jointer seems adequate, and was made because I couldn't purchase a Dai that large.

    Mesquite is a good choice because it shrinks or expands at the same rate, both with the grain and tangential to the grain.

    It is unfortunately prone to chipping.

    I recommend the European beech body planes, as donors. They can be found (without blade) cheap.

    The bigger, the better.
  7. The Mesquite jointer seems adequate, and was made because I couldn't purchase a Dai that large.

    Mesquite is a good choice because it shrinks or expands at the same rate, both with the grain and tangential to the grain.

    It is unfortunately prone to chipping.

    I recommend the European beech body planes, as donors. They can be found (without blade) cheap.

    The bigger, the better.
  8. Texas mesquite! Wow!

    Do you mean to find an older western woodie jointer (old American) or an ECE/Ulmia type?
    My main concern would be whether the blade would fit since it's really small (48 mm).

    Of course, it'd different if you're talking about cutting the older woodie's body.

    By the way, how did the jointer hold up?
  9. Kudos on making your plane. I just made my first Japanese style jointer from Texan mesquite. My recommendation would be to find an important older Western jointer plane for material, and cut it down to size.
  10. Thanks!

    I'm not sure what thin qualifies as?
    I was thinking of using 1/4-1/2" port orford cedar.
    My goal with the rabbets would be more for the baffle...I wish that I'd read your post prior to buying the plane, but suspect that I won't have buyer's remorse.
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