• How I Make Spiral or Twisted Finials



    From the first time I saw pictures of Stuart Mortimers signature twist work, I knew I wanted to try one myself, but I feared it was too difficult and time consuming. Stuarts book, Techniques of Spiral Work- A Practical Guide to the Craft of Making Twists by Hand, and an article in the May 2006 issue of Woodturning were the sources of inspiration and also great learning tools. It was when Mark Hubl showed his first spiral piece that I finally decided I would give it a try.There are many ways this work can be done, but here is the way I make twisted finials. As with any woodturning project, if something doesn't feel right to you, don't do it!!


    Here's how I do it:

    I would suggest using a piece of wood with straight grain and no knots. I have used Sycamore, Walnut, Holly, Ebony, White Pear, and Hormigo Negro. For this tutorial I am using Holly so the pencil lines can be easily seen.




    I have turned this piece to the shape I want, which is usually an elongated pear shape. I’m gradually trying to make these skinnier as I make more. The area to be cut out for the spiral is finish turned, the beads and teardrop are just roughed at this point. It’s important to leave a little “meat” on the top portion at the tailstock end for now because of the stresses caused by sanding. You want to leave this between centers for the entire job, the disc on the end will eventually get turned away.



    The layout consists of four evenly spaced horizontal lines called start lines. The index feature on most lathes makes this easy. The three vertical lines are pitch lines. These are easily done with the lathe running. On this example, the spokes, or bines as they are called, will make a ½ twist, This means when looking at the completed finial a bine will start at the bottom and stop half way around from where it began. You could also layout four vertical pitch lines, which would produce a ¾ twist. The spacing of these lines can be adjusted to change the pitch of the bines.




    Here is where a decision needs to be made. Do you want a right or left hand twist? For this example I chose a right hand twist, but being a southpaw, a left hand is easier for me. Using a pencil I have started at the intersection of a pitch line and start line and draw diagonally to the next start/pitch line intersection. These are called the cut lines. At this time, for safety sake, you should unplug the lathe. It will be used for holding the piece in a still position only.




    Using brad point bits, I have drilled holes on the cut lines. It’s important that each hole be drilled toward the center of the piece. I used a 4mm bit for the four holes at the top of the finial. All the others are 5mm. The reason for the 4mm holes at the top is to insure I have left enough wood where the diameter is smaller. You can always remove wood where necessary, but I haven’t figured out how to add it! I used Bosch bits that have a nice sharp point. This helps to stick the bit where you want and not run the risk of having the bit “skate”.One other thing to include is the importance of spacing the holes well apart. I’ve had more than one occasion where I drilled a hole too close to another and the chip out was bad enough to scrap the piece.




    The next thing I do is to route a shallow trough connecting the holes. Here is a close-up of the bit I use in a Dremel tool. It looks like a Roto-Zip bit, I’m not sure, but it was included with the Dremel. A 1/8” drill bit could also be used. The reason for the trough is to help prevent the bit from jumping out and skating across the surface. I hold the Dremel on a low angle and gently route a channel from hole to hole.




    Here, the shallow channels are completed and I’m ready to open things up between the holes using the same Roto-zip type bit. This bit cuts aggressively, so a light touch is best.




    All opened and ready for refining the shape of what will become the bines. The inside will be cleaned up also.

    A tungsten carbide burr works good for cleaning up the bines. I also use a needle rasp and some coarse rifflers to reach the inside of each bine. A microplane is handy to round over the tops of the bines, it will lay between two bines and round both.




    The bines are starting to take shape and almost ready for sanding, but not yet. You want to be careful
    to keep the bines equal in size. The tools used can be seen (although blurry) sitting on the lathe bed.




    Sanding has begun starting with 80 grit cloth backed sanding strips. I tear the strips to about 1/4" or
    3/8" in width. Continue through the grits removing scratches from the previous grit.



    The sanding is finished. On this piece I sanded to 1200 grit, then I buffed each bine with 2,000 and
    4,000 grit Abralon.



    The next step is to refine the beads and teardrop. A vortex tool or small skew is needed to finish off the beads. As the point is formed on the teardrop the disc will eventually fall off.




    A little sanding on the beads and teardrop, and it's done! The base can now be shaped to suit, or a tenon
    can be turned beneath the bead if it's to be used on a different lid. That about does it. Hope you enjoyed,
    and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
    Comments 55 Comments
    1. Lance Granum's Avatar
      Lance Granum -
      I am sorry it was the way it sounded to me. I was not saying that it came from someone in particular. however you meant it is fine with me. I just wanted to point out that he didn't invent the form that was my point. I don't think anything is new I think everything has been done before and I am sure the art form goes back 2000 years. if any example was here we would know.
    1. Hennie Ackermann's Avatar
      Hennie Ackermann -
      I think this finial is briliant, would like to try it. My only question is what material is it made of, on the picture its white?
    1. Richard Madden's Avatar
      Richard Madden -
      Quote Originally Posted by Hennie Ackermann View Post
      I think this finial is briliant, would like to try it. My only question is what material is it made of, on the picture its white?
      Hennie,
      For this piece I used holly so the pencil lines would show, but any straight grain hardwood would work. Thanks for the comment.
    1. Arlin Eastman's Avatar
      Arlin Eastman -
      I love the way you taught it and shown your work.
      I think I maybe even able to do this.

      Arlin
    1. Bob Anthony's Avatar
      Bob Anthony -
      can you use a sears spiral machine to make them
      BOB
    1. Richard Madden's Avatar
      Richard Madden -
      Quote Originally Posted by Bob Anthony View Post
      can you use a sears spiral machine to make them
      BOB

      Bob, Although I remember seeing those years ago, I'm not familiar with how they work. the taper of the diameter might be a problem, just not sure.
    1. Ciaran McCarthy's Avatar
      Ciaran McCarthy -
      Quote Originally Posted by Dick Wilson View Post
      Richard, Great little tutorial, I will have to give it a try. Thanks Dick Wilson
      I am a big Stuart Mortimer fan myself and do spiral work on a Ligno lathe, sometimes using the Avisera compound slide, as per photo. (the lamp has a low wattage LED bulb in it and lights up well). This is my first time to use the site, so, apologies if I have not used it correctly.
    1. Kevin Beitz's Avatar
      Kevin Beitz -
      I made an attachment like the router crafter from sears to fit on my sawmill. I cut up to 20 foot long twisted squares or octogones.
    1. Colin Parr's Avatar
      Colin Parr -
      Hi Richard Thankyou for the instructions on the spiral finial it encouraged me to have a go.How do I add a picture? Kind regards Colin(Cambridge UK)
    1. Richard Madden's Avatar
      Richard Madden -
      Quote Originally Posted by Colin Parr View Post
      Hi Richard Thankyou for the instructions on the spiral finial it encouraged me to have a go.How do I add a picture? Kind regards Colin(Cambridge UK)

      Colin,
      When making a comment or reply, look for a selection above in the shape of a square. That should say "insert image", and clicking on it will give options on where and which pictures you wish to add. Please show what you have made on the woodturning forum, so we all can enjoy.
    1. Colin Parr's Avatar
      Colin Parr -
      Attachment 428064Thanks for the help Richard on both counts.
    1. Colin Parr's Avatar
      Colin Parr -
      Quote Originally Posted by Colin Parr View Post
      Attachment 428064Thanks for the help Richard on both counts.
      This is a Yew hollow for on which I would normally turn a standard finial.However I am fed up with loosing out to my pal Peter who keeps putting a spiral finial on his work .So I made up my mind to have a go and the result is above.Kind regards Colin
    1. Richard Madden's Avatar
      Richard Madden -
      Quote Originally Posted by Colin Parr View Post
      This is a Yew hollow for on which I would normally turn a standard finial.However I am fed up with loosing out to my pal Peter who keeps putting a spiral finial on his work .So I made up my mind to have a go and the result is above.Kind regards Colin

      Wonderful work, Colin. You should post this on the woodturning forum for others to enjoy. You have done a great job!!!
    1. Kris Roberts's Avatar
      Kris Roberts -
      Been a long time since I was on the forum. Had to get a reminder. I am a woodturner, and the secretary of our club. It's kept me too busy to do much turning. Just getting back into it again, and looking for spindle things to do. This technique is something I have been looking at for years but have never tried. IT IS TIME. Many thanks Richard. Hope you are still at it.
    1. Richard Madden's Avatar
      Richard Madden -
      Kris,
      I just saw this and I thank you for looking and for the comment. I hope you do give this a try, but be patient and don't give up.
      I hate to admit it, but I've not turned anything for over two years. A friend asked for an urn with a spiral finial and both the container and finial have been roughed, but still not finished. I need to get on the ball and finish this. Thanks again for looking.