It consists of a 3/4" piece of hard maple 3" od, with a 3/8" x 2 1/4" tenon.
This piece is glued and screwed to a piece of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood 4 1/2" od. The screws are #8 x 1 3/4" long, and protrude 5/16" out from the face of the plywood. The inner screws form a 1 1/2" circle with one in the center for a total of 5 screws. The plywood utilizes 8 #8 x 1" screws forming a 3 1/2"diameter.
After setting the chuck plate in the chuck, put your wood up against the screws and bring the tailstock up to the soon to be tenon side of the wood. Tighten the tailstock, and with a deadblow, or good hammer, tap the wood in at least 4 places to seat it onto the screws of the chuck plate. Retighten the tailstock. Turn on your lathe on and turn your tenon onto your wood. After the roughout and tenon is turned, remove the chuck plate, insert your turning into your chuck, and finish your turning. It's as simple as that!
You do not need to have a flat surface to set up against the chuck plate. It's a lot quicker than setting up a faceplate, and just as safe as a faceplate.
If you are going to turn something without a good solid center on either end, use two chuck plates.
Remove the 8 outer screws and the center screw. Put the point of your live center in it's place, and tighten the tailstock.
After you turn your centerless piece, then you need to figure out what you're going to do with a cylinder.
This last picture is showing that the tailstock is removed, and the screws are still supporting the cholla, just from the pressure from the original tightening of the tailstock. This Chuck plate is intended to be used with the tailstock. I suppose you could turn large spindles, such as table bases, columns and the like.
Jerry (in Tucson)
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