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Originally Posted by Adrian Anguiano

Ive been borrowing a nice Jet 1.5HP 52" Contractor Saw, and its about time I return it to my cousin.

My #1 Priority is Riving Knife.
My #2 is Dust Collection.

It seems like the sawstop does both of those great but I cant pull the trigger on that price tag. The Grizzy Polar bear G0691 at 3HP for $1399 looks perfect. Great riving knife and good price for what you get. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3...ng-Knife/G0691

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Originally Posted by Adrian Anguiano

Ive been borrowing a nice Jet 1.5HP 52" Contractor Saw, and its about time I return it to my cousin.

My #1 Priority is Riving Knife.
My #2 is Dust Collection.

It seems like the sawstop does both of those great but I cant pull the trigger on that price tag. The Grizzy Polar bear G0691 at 3HP for $1399 looks perfect. Great riving knife and good price for what you get. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3...ng-Knife/G0691

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Originally Posted by Phil Phelps

It's best to know if it's cast or extruded before drilling. You can use Rick's method for best results on either. Cell cast acrylic is much more heat tolerable. When using regular wood working drills and saws, extruded acrylic will melt and leave a rough edge. This is much more noticable when using drills and jig saws. When ever I'm forced to use a hole saw on extruded acrylic, I will make several plunges, about 1/16" with the drill press, allowing a little cooling time between cuts. I also

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The first Monday in January....that time of year when thoughts go to making resolutions and setting goals for the new year. Normally this is a fun process for short period of time as every goal seems within grasp, but this year doesn't feel that way. Maybe it's the realities that come with age and experience (some call it wisdom, but that's reaching). To be brutally honest, what's needed is a combination of realistic goals and a good kick in the pants to get them done...or maybe this approach is ...

Originally Posted by Mark Bolton

This was the option I would suggest "if" you can open up the wall and gain access to the studs. I would not be too comfortable trusting the mantle to a lag in the stud face to not sag or pull out over time. The bigger the lag, the less stud there will be there to hold it. The way we have done these is to fabricate a steel plate or yoke that lags/bolts into the sides of the stud with a 1" steel pipe projecting out to be embedded into the mantle. The plate/yoke allows you to bear more

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