Powder coating for plane refurb?

[James G. Jones]

I recently had some door hardware at work refinished by having it powder coated and it looks great. Does anyone know if this will work for replacement of japanning on a plane refurb? My big concerns would be the heat involved and whether it is possible to mask the sole and frog mating areas. Any input would be appreciated.

James

[Michael Sobik]

Powder coating usually cures around 400 degrees. I wouldn't think it would be a problem. As far as masking, I usually mask off the areas I don't want coated before I spray the power. Then carefully peel the tape of without disturbing the power. This usually works pretty well. I haven't coated any of my planes yet, but am thinking about doing one. I think it'd be an ideal finish.

[Johnny Kleso]

Thats what all makers use on there planes these days I bet it will look good..

I use hi tech paint on my planes and you cant tell the difference if you apply it right..

Check out my Japanning page at my website, just click on my name above and follow link..

I just updated the page a few weeks back..

Enjoy

[Frederick Rowe]

Powder coating may be a durable alternative to paint or authentic Japanning, but a problem may lie in it's final thickness. Based only on my observations rehabilitating planes, Stanley likely applied the Japanning prior to milling the body and frog. This eliminated the issue of masking. Since you can't/won't/don't need to mill any parts, masking is necessary. I've not powder coated a plane so I can't speak to the ability to mask off areas in the same sense as in painting, but in painting, the masking should be removed prior to the paint curing. This prevents chipping at the paint line. I don't see how this could be done with powder coating.

Those with actual experience may have a solution. However, with the advent of modern paints, the issue strikes me as moot. Any number of spray products (in the convenience of a rattle can) are as durable as Japanning, easy to apply, and inexpensive. I suspect the environment in all but the most industrial of shops place much of a demand on the finish of a hand plane.

Merry Christmas!

[Bill Houghton]

I suspect the environment in all but the most industrial of shops [doesn't] place much of a demand on the finish of a hand plane.

Frederick, forgive me if I've misunderstood your intent in that last statement...it seemed to me you'd left out the word I added in brackets.

My No. 8 lost all its japanning somewhere along the way, but it still seems to plane pretty well. I think a finish coat on the non-operative parts is for either rust prevention or appearance. If you live in a humid area, a finish coat makes sense for the first, but I doubt there'll be much functional difference between a good high-end paint and any other approach - surface prep is WAY more important. If you're after appearance, then you should go for whatever gives the best mileage in your engine.

[James G. Jones]

Johnny,
I've attempted to use the engine paint that you suggested on your site. However my abilities with any kind of spray on finish are horribly limited. I'm just not good at it. Runs, drips, and errors enough to shame the old Johnny Bench paint ads. I have even thought of buying an old rusty junker of a plane beyond hope of restoration, merely for a test bed. Paint, strip, paint, strip, etc... until I have some degree of ability. I think that might be a good idea, if for no other reason than to improve my spraying.

By the way - you have an awesome site that I reference very often. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.

Merry Christmas,
James

[Frederick Rowe]

Bill - Thanks for the assist. Yes, that is what I meant - I'll blame Christmas morning distractions!