Trim Nailers

[Tom Godley]

I have decided to not only install more elaborate trim in a new addition that I just had built - But I thought that I would do it myself.


I was wondering what pneumatic nailer people use for interior trim work??


I have a Hitachi 16 gauge nailer that must be 10 years old -- I bought it to install a bunch of MDF baseboard years ago. I have not used it since :(

I also have an older Grizzly nailer -- it shoots slightly smaller nails than the 16. I do not know the size -- the box on the nails just said N25. I hate to admit that I have never used it.

Someone mentioned that they use a 23 gauge -- but they look like they are best for casework.


The nailer was the only way to go when installing MDF back then because of the volcano that would occur when trying to hand nail -- I also used glue to minimize the fasteners required. I may use mdf again because I am going to paint everything and the 16' lengths are nice for long runs -- and it is primed!

[Prashun Patel]

I have 2 trim nailers:

a Porter Cable 18ga brad nailer that goes up to 2 1/2". Good for most lighter trim work; Wouldn't use it on crown bkz the brad heads won't hold that well especially in MDF, which is what I use for painted crown. But for

a Dewalt 15ga angled finish nailer I use for 1x wood stock and closets. Got it refurb'd.

Bostitch always gets good reviews in these categories. But I haven't had problems with either of the above tools.

If it were me, I wouldn't get a 16ga fin nailer. It's too brutal for delicate trim work and too weak for anything med-duty structural.

The next nailer I'm considering is a 23ga pin nailer to 'clamp' furniture trim during glueup.

[Sue Wise]

I have a 16 gauge Porter Cable nailer that I have used for baseboards.

An 18 gauge Porter Cable for shoe molding and etc.

I just purchased a 23 gauge Porter Cable pinner, but I have not had the opportunity to use it yet.

-Sue

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Tom, I would get a 18 gauge brad nailer, I like Senco, or a 23 gauge pinner, Grex is my preference there.

The 18 gauge nails are plenty for trim, and delicate enough to not be too bad for filling of the holes.

The 23 gauge is a sweet little tool, you have to squint to see the holes, even if you know where they are. Mine will shoot up too two inch pins, which hold very well. They are however, tiny little pieces of wire, and for trim, I can imagine that they may tend to go a little wacky if you hit plaster. Wood to wood is great, but layers of different densities can turn the pins as they go in, and get you a curled up piece of wire that needs removed.

I just used my Grex 23 gauge to build my daughter a barn for Christmas. It is made of individual "boards", and I bought the Grex for the siding which measures 3/4" tall, by 1/16" thick and is oak. It splits with the 18 gauge, but not the 23 gauge.

[Joe Chritz]

My normal trim gun is a paslode cordless straight finish nailer. I also have air powered brad guns in a couple flavors and a pin nailer from dewalt when the need strikes.

The cordless guns are very handy when you are moving around the house a lot.

Joe

[Mitchell Andrus]

Porter Cable 18 ga. Big enough with a small head and the nails are at the Borg.

[Bill White]

16 ga for door sets, facings, chair rail backer boards, or anything attached directly to walls, etc. 18 ga for anything attached to the above 16 ga stuff, and 23 ga for anything attached to 16 ga.
Bill

[Jim Becker]

I use an 18 gage brad gun and a 15 gage angle finish nailer for these purposes, but also did employ my pinner for light trim around some built-ins. The contractors used 16 and 18 gage Paselode untethered guns in our addition...all painted trim as you now. The bottom line is that the heavier the trim piece and the longer the fastener needed, the larger the fastener. Crown, for example, is really going to need the 16 or 15 gage gun due to long fasteners and more weight.