Intro to planes & saws for new member

[Roy Wall]

Hello all,

I've just joined the forums after viewing for a few months - I'm impressed with the "creek"!!!

I have a 10 yr old Record #7 (still like new) and a couple of Stanley block planes, and a Bailey #4 type 16. Never used them much but I've had a new determination as of late to "slide down the slippery slope". I've usually made Armoires and big items using veneered plywood stock; but would like to make more "solid wood" items with traditional joinery.

I have read Garrett Hack's Plane book, Rae's Hand tool book, and love the thought of using these tools more and more in my woodworking.

From my research, I'm somewhat convinced that I could own quality tools (like LN planes & saws)....and use them for years with a high likelyhood I could sell them at anytime for 85%+ of what I paid for them? In the long run, I don't feel I'd be out any additional $$$ because I'd lose the same amounts on what I'd invest to get old Bailey planes up to spec.....and I would benefit by using GOOD TOOLS. Am I close to being right........What are your thoughts?

Love the forum!

[Richard Gillespie]

Welcome to the slippery slope. Watch out for friction burns on the back side or is it from SWMBO when they find out how much you've spent on tools.

Here is my two cents and I give change. I haven't stepped up to the more expensive equipment yet. I've bought a number of refugees from the rust bucket (36)and learned by cleaning/tuning them up. My results have varied and I'm not always sure why one plane gives great results and another p**P. The biggest problem with the cheaper planes seams to be the thin blades.

I do have one new plane I'm quite pleased with. Last year my wife gave me a Lee Valley low angle smoother for father's day (I told her what to get). Just recently I bought two high angle blades for that plane and I'm very please with the results I'm getting. One blade gives me the equivalent of 50 degree frog and the other I reground to give 60 degrees. This year she's giving me the scrapper plane from the same company.

I forgot to add, beautiful work by the way. Very nice cabinet work!

[Steve Beadle]

Nice work, Roy! And welcome to the Creek! I made an amoire for my youngest daughter last year, and it looks similar to the one with drawers, except that mine is a separate base. I was wondering how you did the raised panels. Since I did not have a raised panel bit, I did mine partially on the router table with a straight bit (stepped across the slope) and then finished them by hand-planing. They came out very nice, but it seemed like a lot of work! I didn't feel safe trying to raise those very large panels on my small table saw.
Regarding the old plane vs. new plane issue, it's a matter of money and aesthetics. Of course, your aesthetics could prefer the beauty of a Lie-Nielsen (if your wallet can afford it), or you might appreciate even more the beauty and functionality of a restored classic, like a Stanley Bedrock. Myself, I want some of each, including the Japanese-style planes. And then there's a guy right in my neck of the woods--Steve Knight--who makes some real beauties, reasonably priced.
So, I guess it depends on what you really want. What tempts you the most?

[Roy Wall]

Steve and Richard,

Thanks for the kind words and welcome!!!

The left armoire I made for the bedroom: Used a 1x8"x10' red oak board for the drawer faces, just divided it up to keep the grain pattern looking similar. Even the back is 3/4 oak veneer ply so it is extremely heavy. I didn't pay much attention to the height as I was making it - it turned out to be 6'-8" (sound familiar). Anyway to get it in the bedroom of our old house I had to take the top door stop off and squeeze the carpet down to get it in the room. Because it was soooo tall (long), I couldn't "bend" it from a hallway into the room. A close call :) , so now I'm carefull about the dimensions:p . It's 20" deep x 40" wide. The door stiles & rails are 3/4 oak "dadoed" to recieve the 1/2" veneer ply section. Whitewashed/pickled stain..........

The wider (but shorter...I learned) armoire is for TV/stereo. I was able to "cheat" and take the doors to a friends shop and use paneling bits on a shaper. It's 48"w x 72"h x 24"deep and the base has wheels attached to roll it around (about 3/4" off floor). Here's another pic....

I built them mainly to save $$ and have better quality (I mean, places wanted $2-3,000 for lesser quality pieces). Both have many rabbet & dado joints (including drawers on armoire #1). I think the hardware on the bedroom armoire cost as much as the wood!!!

So I want to put a little more craftsmanship into my pieces.... I want to make a pair of nightstands (maybe mahogany & birdseye maple?) using tenons, dovetails, and all that good stuff....Gosh, anything that's 14d x 18w x 26 tall will seem tiny!!:rolleyes:

Maybe I'll become a woodworker yet.........:)

[Mark Singer]

Roy,
Welcome! Nice work too! Any tool you purchase you should like the look and feel of. It is somewhat a personal thing. Make sure you see and touch many brands before buying.The LN are fine ,I have several.The Clifton are also great. I like the Primus Reform wood body...I have several different models from ECE/Primus. I also have older planes and if properly tuned are as good as the newer high end models. The Japanese saws and older tenon and dovetail saws are excellent. The key is in the sharpening and the steel. The better tools do hold their value quite well as you stated. Good look and keep up the nice work!

[Roy Wall]

Oh yeah, my initial thoughts for a great starter set would be:

Veritas: LA adj block & medium shoulder plane (save a little $ and good reviews)

LN: 4 1/2, 5 1/2, & 7? (Or maybe a Knight jointer...But I do have a Record #7)

Optional extras for the next few Christmas's: LN 60 1/2-R, LA Jack (LV or LN),
Knight coffin smoother, Shepard #7 Infill kit, more wood from ECE....

Hey, it's fun to shop in your mind!!

I'm still looking for some of those garage sale specials to put a Hock blade in and give em' a rip!!!

[Tim Sproul]

Roy,

nice work you've post.

as for the planes....I'd agree with you on your assessment that going for antique metal bodies may not be worth it.

I started there and have quickly grown less than thrilled with them....they perform well and all, but I'm not to keen on using them. I like the Veritas planes I have - LA block, LA smoother, scraper plane, cabinet scraper. I don't have any LN but everyone who has one will tell you they are an excellent plane.

Personally, I've developed a fondness for wooden bodied planes now.

[Roy Wall]

Thanks Mark & Tim!!

Good advice on trying out many brands and types........always good reviews on the Knight wooden arsenal & they'll save you a few $$$ too! I'm certainly not against a mixed set....

Tim,

On the logic of buying LN's and such....it does appear I could buy a $300 LN 4 1/2 beauty and use it for a year to two - and then easily sell it for the same amount or only $40 less - the same amount I'd spent for a old Bailey that I had to tune up myself and buy a $30 Hock blade to get similar performance!! So why not use the "A" brand in the first place and enjoy the benefits from the start!!! :)

[Michael Campbell]

Thanks Mark & Tim!!

On the logic of buying LN's and such....it does appear I could buy a $300 LN 4 1/2 beauty and use it for a year to two - and then easily sell it for the same amount or only $40 less - the same amount I'd spent for a old Bailey that I had to tune up myself and buy a $30 Hock blade to get similar performance!! So why not use the "A" brand in the first place and enjoy the benefits from the start!!! :)

If you did that, you'd be out $40 and still have no plane. If you spend the money on a stanley (etc.), you'll still have the plane after your $40 is done, and have some practice at tuning and fettling.

I'm not saying the LN route is bad, just pointing out a very real difference in this approach.