7.25" Circular Saw Blade for plywood?

[John Sanford]

Can anybody suggest a good, clean cutting blade for cutting plywood with a circular saw?

[Dewey Torres]

John,
Most any medium to high quality carbide tipped baled will do this with a zero clearance base installed.

Take a look at pic # 3 (one way to do it):
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/images/20040813wb-3.jpg
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2004/08/13/wb/

You could do the same thing with 1/4 inch hardboard and double stick tape.

[scott spencer]

Several of the better 40T blades should do well...Freud, Ridgid, Forrest, CMT, Oshlun, Bosch, Hitachi, etc.

[Russ Massery]

Both responses are good advice. I found that Dewey's idea with the zero clearance base. Made the best improvement in the cut. As far as plywood in concerned.

[Anthony Whitesell]

The most important things with cutting plywood are:

1. Support - support both pieces through the entire cut and be sure they are both secure so they won't move or slip
2. Smooth Action - Before you make the cut, be sure you can reach the entire cut without pausing. If you can make a steady push through the entire cut the quality will be greatly increased.
3. Zero Clearance Base - though with a circular saw you should have the face down the zero clearance will help to prevent chipping on the back (up) side.
4. Sharp blade - As long as the blade is sharp and you have items 1, 2, and 3 your cuts should be good.

I'm using an old 40 tooth steel blade on my circular saw. I support my work on either four saw horses or two saw horses spanned by jointed/planed flat sacrifical 2x3's (Rule #1). Luckily I'm 6'-1" so there aren't many suts I can't make on a 4x8 of plywood; but I do have to make sure that I have control of the extension cord. I use on of the all-in-one guides with a guide plate turned ZCI. Since I have made these changes to my technique, the break down time has been reduced and even my father has asked what I use to make the cuts. They're real pretty and accurate compare to my old ways (or bad habits).

I would suggest a general purpose blade with about 40 teeth.

[Lee Schierer]

In addition to the advice already offered on blades. Run a strip of masking tape (regular, not the painters type) over the cut line. Press it down firmly, make the cut and then peel the tape off toward the cut and you will see almost zero splinters. You only need to do this on the top since the cutting action is from the bottom up.

[Prashun Patel]

Plywood blades for circ saws (the cheap ones at least) suck, IMHO.

They dull so quick, after a few cuts, you'll get major burning.

Yr better off w a quality 40t blade and a ZCI.
If you use a good cut guide that goes up to the cut line, the ZCI is irrelevant.

[Anthony Anderson]

I use a Freud 40 T blade, and it works great, along with a homemade zero clearance base, as in the picture posted. Bill

[Gary Herrmann]

I received a Forrest Duraline blade for my CS as a gift after I made some cabinets for a friend (probably based on my muttering about tearout and having to tape before cutting). I've had it for a couple years now and it still cuts very well. Don't know that I would have sprung for it on my own, but I really like it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Plywood blades for circ saws (the cheap ones at least) suck, IMHO.

They dull so quick, after a few cuts, you'll get major burning.

Most of the are steel (not carbide) with lots of small teeth, so it's not surprising that they croak quickly. I gave up on them a while ago.

[Bill White]

you're cutting with the "face" side of the ply turned down. That way the teeth are entering the face of the ply.
Bill

[John Sanford]

In addition to the advice already offered on blades. Run a strip of masking tape (regular, not the painters type) over the cut line. Press it down firmly, make the cut and then peel the tape off toward the cut and you will see almost zero splinters. You only need to do this on the top since the cutting action is from the bottom up.

Why not painter's tape? I've used it in the past to good effect, is regular masking tape (i.e., the tan stuff) that much better?

[Aaron Wingert]

I picked up a Freud 60T "diablo" carbide blade at HD for $20 a couple weeks ago and have been thrilled with its performance in plywood. Very thin kerf too. Until now I've always had one of those steel tooth plywood blades that don't cut very clean, but I usually only cut my main cuts with the circular saw and finish everything off with the table saw.

[Jason White]

Freud Diablo 40-tooth. Available at home centers.

JW


Can anybody suggest a good, clean cutting blade for cutting plywood with a circular saw?

[Peter Quadarella]

The Freud Diable 40T is a great blade and relatively inexpensive (I think I've gotten it from Amazon for ~$9 each).