Back for hanging melamine cabs....

[Michael Donahue]

I have a project coming up where I'll be making a few hanging melamine cabinets. What do you usually use for the backs? I could use 3/4" melamine (the only stuff I can get my hands on) but that seems pretty heavy. Advice?

Thanks!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I use either 1/4" or 1/2" ply for all backs...mostly 1/4".

[Michael Donahue]

I use either 1/4" or 1/2" ply for all backs...mostly 1/4".

How would you fasten the backs securely? Glue and confirmat screws maybe?

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I dado the backs in...I run the back panels through my router table and take off 1/4". Then I cut the shelves to match and the backs then 'disappear' from the sides. I glue them in and then pin nail them home.

PS...I should tell you that I have never used melamine so I 'know nothing' [cue Schultz humor here] about those screws.

[frank shic]

one of the commonest ways is to set the back 3/4" in from the back and screw a hanging rail behind the 1/4" dadoed back and into the sides.

[Jamie Buxton]

I've recently seen an installation of Eurostyle cabinets whose boxes were made of melamine. The installation system for the uppers was really slick. There is a slim steel hanging rail screwed to the wall. In the upper corners of each cabinet there are little brackets which have a finger reaching through the back to grab the hanging rail. The cool thing about the brackets is that they are adjustable, just like Eurostyle hinges. You can hang each cabinet box on the wall, and then adjust it up and down, and in and out.

In this system, the cabinet back is not used at all for the suspension of the cabinets. It could be entirely omitted if you want.

One source I've found for the systems is Woodworkers Hardware. Click on the Application link on this page for a little more info. http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Fasteners%20%26%20Screws/CatID/Hanging%20Rails%20and%20Fittings/showprod/1

[Joe Chritz]

There are as many ways as there are makers for the most part. All cabs I make now have 1/2 backs and I nearly always use plywood but lots of cabinet shops use melamine for the backs.

The method Frank mentions works very well and allows for a nailer at the bottom as well as the top. It trades cheaper material (1/4 material for the back and generally scrap for the hangers) for a little more time and a tad less interior space.

I like to dado a 1/2 back in 1/4" then glue it into place.

Joe

[Michael Donahue]

Thanks guys! :cool:

[Larry Edgerton]

French cleat.

[David Giles]

Nothing wrong with 3/4" backs from a strength standpoint! Just Roo glue and screw it to the sides.

[Mark Boyette]

I build quite a bit of melemine kitchen cabinets. They have a "hard rock maple" melemine that looks good. I build the cabinet then laminate 1/4" maple, cherry or selection wood on the finish sides. Edgeband the fronts stain/finish and hang doors/drawers. I rabbit the backs into the sides with the dado blade for 3/4" material. at the cost difference between 1/4" and 3/4" it's not worth having to go through building in a header board for screwing in. much stronger also. I've build about 50 or so kitchens over the last few years and have yet to have a problem.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/rockyrivermark/js800_beach_house_kitchen.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/rockyrivermark/cherrykitchen.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/rockyrivermark/js1024_snell3.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/rockyrivermark/js1024_snell1.jpg

[Greg Hines, MD]

For any cabinet, I would use a French cleat. I prefer a more substantial back, but if you didn't want to have one, secure a good cleat to the top, after your 1/4" back, so that you can access the cleat.

Doc

[frank shic]

mark, those are BEAUTIFUL kitchen cabs! did you make the doors or outsource them? do you ever have trouble hanging up those cabinets by yourself? using 3/4" on the back must make the box a lot heavier.

jamie, it's funny that you mentioned the hanging rail that woodworker's hardware sells since i use a similar product that's sold by true32.com and it makes installation a breeze for the individual installer although it does take some extra steps to bore the holes for the hanging mechanism and rabbet the side and part of the back to allow the hook to clamp on to the hanging rail. the hanging rail method is superior to french cleat method because it allows finer adjustment to account for walls that are not plumb. after installing my kitchen cabinets several years ago, i will NEVER go back to the old fashioned nailer method.