Beaded Face Frame Question

[Justin Leiwig]

What is the most common router bit size for beaded face frames?

I'm going to get started on my laundry room project next weekend and would like to order the bit soon, but I see they range from 1/16" radius up to 1/4" radius.

[Karl Brogger]

1/4" is what I've always seen, or if it was bigger or smaller I didn't take note of it.

[Gene Howe]

For beaded face frames/panel frames use a 1/8th bit and do both sides of a 1/4" thick length of stock. Generally, it's safer to rip the stock length to 2" wide, rout the round over on both edges, top and bottom sides (four cuts) then rip the length to your desired width. For a 3/4" face frame, that would be 7/8" to give you a bead that protrudes 1/8".

[Justin Leiwig]

For beaded face frames/panel frames use a 1/8th bit and do both sides of a 1/4" thick length of stock. Generally, it's safer to rip the stock length to 2" wide, rout the round over on both edges, top and bottom sides (four cuts) then rip the length to your desired width. For a 3/4" face frame, that would be 7/8" to give you a bead that protrudes 1/8".

These will be on the face frame with jack miters, no applied beading here. I'm working on my skill sets and like to do things the hardway. :D

[David Werkheiser]

1/4" is what I mostly see in this area (S.E.Pa), "Rutt" kitchens uses a 3/8" bead as their standard. Both Keystone Wood Specialties and Meridian Products offer 1/4"+3/8" beads when ordering face frames.
I added to some cabinetry built in the 1920's that had an 1/8" bead that looked nice, till the painters brushed on some primer, two top coats and filled up the bead with paint.
David Werkheiser

[Chip Lindley]

These will be on the face frame with jack miters, no applied beading here. I'm working on my skill sets and like to do things the hardway. :D

I must assume you will apply a half-round routered strip to your rail/stile material before cutting to length with miters? Otherwise how will your mouldings not be "applied?" In my mind this is the only way you will do this with a router using a roundover bit of half the diameter of bead you wish to include. This beading would have to necessisarily stand proud of the face of the rails/stiles by half its thickness.

Alternately, you could mill your beading into the rail/stile stock with a *bull nose* bit which would incorporate a flat groove between the bead and stock face. This would make the bead lie flat with the face of rails/stiles. The bullnose could also be used on a strip same as the diameter bead wanted, saving a step in milling, if you desire the bead to stand proud of the frame surface.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_bull.html

Seems some confusion as to radius/diameter in this thread. Remember that roundover/radius bits produce only half the profile you desire. Bullnose bits are by diameter, and produce the finished profile in one pass. Good Luck, Merry Christmas!!

[Jeff Duncan]

What is needed is a beading bit, not a roundnose or radius or other. A common size is a 1/4" opening (bead) = 1/8" radius. Magnate makes one - part #5801, and Freud has # 80-102. Both companies also offer larger radius openings if desired.
Personally I think beading the frame parts directly is the only way to go.
Applied beading is good for beginners and/or doing things on the cheap, but I'd never use it on a clients kitchen. It really doesn't take all that much extra time to do it, and the effort will show in the end product.
just my opinion for what it's worth.....
good luck,
JeffD

[Justin Leiwig]

What is needed is a beading bit, not a roundnose or radius or other. A common size is a 1/4" opening (bead) = 1/8" radius. Magnate makes one - part #5801, and Freud has # 80-102. Both companies also offer larger radius openings if desired.
Personally I think beading the frame parts directly is the only way to go.
Applied beading is good for beginners and/or doing things on the cheap, but I'd never use it on a clients kitchen. It really doesn't take all that much extra time to do it, and the effort will show in the end product.
just my opinion for what it's worth.....
good luck,
JeffD

I think the confusion comes from the nomenclature that every bit manufacturer uses. Some call them a square bead, some an end bead, some something else. I'm looking at Eagle America bits, and they have a set that has 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" Dia. beads. I think I'll buy that so I can try all three and see which one I like best. :D

Thanks for the advice everyone!