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Alan Tolchinsky
06-15-2004, 3:03 PM
I'm putting oak treads and risers on my once carpeted stairs. Do you put the risers on top of the treads or put the tread on first and then but the tread against it? In other words do the risers sit on the treads or not? I'd like to but the treads against the risers then I could adjust the riser height easier and hide any small gaps behind the treads. Make sense? Thanks Alan in Md.

Chris Padilla
06-15-2004, 3:08 PM
Rabbet them both! :p ;)

Steve Clardy
06-15-2004, 4:43 PM
Normally the riser goes on first, then the step. But, theres exceptions.
Do what you have to do to get them installed.
I normally use plywood for the risers, and wood for the steps.
If you ever have to remove a step for repair or replacement, it's easier to remove when butted to the riser.
Steve

Alan Tolchinsky
06-15-2004, 6:01 PM
Normally the riser goes on first, then the step. But, theres exceptions.
Do what you have to do to get them installed.
I normally use plywood for the risers, and wood for the steps.
If you ever have to remove a step for repair or replacement, it's easier to remove when butted to the riser.
Steve


Thanks Steve, That's the way I want to do it. Nice to hear somebody else installs it that way. I was going to use ply for the risers but then I heard if you don't get the right veneer ply the oak may stain differently or just look different. Something about rotorary cut veneers not looking as good. I'm getting all my lumber milled up and glued up and man is that some workout. The plywood risers sure would have saved some work. Thanks Alan

Alan Tolchinsky
06-15-2004, 6:02 PM
Rabbet them both! :p ;)
Thanks Chris. Why do you rabbet them? Have you done this before? Alan

Chris Padilla
06-15-2004, 6:22 PM
Alan,

If you use solid wood for the treads, you may wish to rabbet the riser and when the tread moves, it won't reveal a gap (if it shrinks) or split (if it grows). Of course, a small piece of quarter round molding make take care of this (attach it only to the riser). However, I don't know if a 6-8" wide piece of oak has enough movement to worry about. :confused:

If you are worried about color matching the plywood riser, make your own plywood! Take some 1/4" or 1/2" plywood and glue on an 1/8" to 1/4" piece of solid oak veneer. Dunno if you have a bandsaw but you could have "fun" bookmatching each tread and riser assuming you have thick enough treads to slice off a thin piece of veneer from to make the riser. Could be interesting...probably not worth the effort but I'm always a glutton for punishment when it comes to woodworking! :)

Steve Clardy
06-16-2004, 11:10 AM
Thanks Steve, That's the way I want to do it. Nice to hear somebody else installs it that way. I was going to use ply for the risers but then I heard if you don't get the right veneer ply the oak may stain differently or just look different. Something about rotorary cut veneers not looking as good. I'm getting all my lumber milled up and glued up and man is that some workout. The plywood risers sure would have saved some work. Thanks Alan
Be sure and post pics when yer done!!!
Steve

Alan Tolchinsky
06-16-2004, 11:27 AM
Be sure and post pics when yer done!!!
Steve
Thanks Steve, I definitely will. I have all the risers glued up and am starting on the treads now. What do you think about using 10" wide boards for the treads? I'm concerned about splitting. Some of them have some cracks on the back side going lengthwise. They're not real deep but it got me thinking. Should I rip them and glue together? Or just leave them alone? Thanks Alan

Steve Clardy
06-16-2004, 11:39 AM
Thanks Steve, I definitely will. I have all the risers glued up and am starting on the treads now. What do you think about using 10" wide boards for the treads? I'm concerned about splitting. Some of them have some cracks on the back side going lengthwise. They're not real deep but it got me thinking. Should I rip them and glue together? Or just leave them alone? Thanks Alan
Ten inch treads are not a problem. Cracks? If they do not go to the end, just apply some glue and wood dust in the cracks. If they go to the ends, then rip and reglue.

Alan Tolchinsky
06-16-2004, 1:47 PM
Ten inch treads are not a problem. Cracks? If they do not go to the end, just apply some glue and wood dust in the cracks. If they go to the ends, then rip and reglue.

Thanks Steve, The cracks are actually only on the ends and go in about 3" or so. I just fitted all the risers, 10 boxed in by the stringers and 4 open at one end. The open ones are sweet aren't they? After this I'm planning on using solid hardwood at the top of the stairs in the hallway ands into the bedroom. That's if I have enough energy. Alan

Steve Clardy
06-16-2004, 2:01 PM
Thanks Steve, The cracks are actually only on the ends and go in about 3" or so. I just fitted all the risers, 10 boxed in by the stringers and 4 open at one end. The open ones are sweet aren't they? After this I'm planning on using solid hardwood at the top of the stairs in the hallway ands into the bedroom. That's if I have enough energy. Alan
Yes, the open ones are fun sometimes trying to figure out how to make them look good. I have used plywood there, put it on first, then the risers and treads overlaping the ply, then trimming them out.
About 1/3 of my work is staircases, the other is kitchen and bath cabs.
Seems every staircase is different and has it's own glitches, trying to figure out how to tie everything in and trimming them out. But I like it. Always a challenge. I really like the bendie ones, they are fun also.
Steve

Chris Padilla
06-16-2004, 2:59 PM
Do you get into spiral staircases much, Steve?

Steve Clardy
06-16-2004, 3:18 PM
Do you get into spiral staircases much, Steve?
Sure do Chris. They are a LOAD of fun also.
I have one that has been ongoing for two years now. [They ran out of FUNDS!!]
Anyway, all the fan shaped treads and risers are in and trimmed out and stained. Made out of cherry, with cherry stain.
When the FUNDS appear, the fun will begin on the handrail. Bendable handrails in cherry are not available in what they want. So, I'll have to get 4 different sets of molding cutters made to make my own. It will be about 16' long.
And the fun part here is, it's a very tight downward turn. Looking from the top side down, imagine seeing a round circle on the floor about the size of a 55 gallon drum, about 36". If I manage to get it done without breaking a piece I'll be lucky, so I'll make extra pieces just in case. I'll also make the balisters too.
Steve

Chris Padilla
06-16-2004, 4:26 PM
Wow! That does sound challenging! Will you be steam-bending the pieces or laminating or ??? Man, I hope you take copious pics of this...sounds very cool.

Alan Tolchinsky
06-16-2004, 4:29 PM
Yes, the open ones are fun sometimes trying to figure out how to make them look good. I have used plywood there, put it on first, then the risers and treads overlaping the ply, then trimming them out.
About 1/3 of my work is staircases, the other is kitchen and bath cabs.
Seems every staircase is different and has it's own glitches, trying to figure out how to tie everything in and trimming them out. But I like it. Always a challenge. I really like the bendie ones, they are fun also.
Steve

Steve, The biggest part of this job was making my own risers and treads. If I could have gotten them around here at a more reasonable price, I would have gone that way. Heck, the nearest Lowes and HD only had a couple treads left. Must be a run on them or something. But I always enjoy straightening wood and gluing up panels. I've gotten more practice now. Alan

Chris Padilla
06-16-2004, 4:32 PM
That is the spirit, Alan! It is tough work, no doubt, but you gain experience every day and a sense of pride.

Steve Clardy
06-16-2004, 4:53 PM
Wow! That does sound challenging! Will you be steam-bending the pieces or laminating or ??? Man, I hope you take copious pics of this...sounds very cool.
I laminate Chris. Steam bending doesn't work as I need to glue them up. There is usually 7-9 strips to laminate together. Steam bending would actually be better in the fact of less breakage, but there not enough time usually for the strips to dry.
Cherry doesn't bend well, due to the grain pattern flying around on it. No pics yet, but I'll post them when done. Have no idea when I'll start back up on it. I'll post one of my favorite staircases I did sometime soon. Not a true spiral, but it is to some extent. Steve

Alan Tolchinsky
06-16-2004, 11:57 PM
That is the spirit, Alan! It is tough work, no doubt, but you gain experience every day and a sense of pride.

Thanks for the encouragement Chris. I feel like I've glued up about twenty tables. But without the legs and aprons. This is fun; I just wish I had more wood. I got the last of the 5/4 where I go.