Questions on Turning Furniture Finials

[Matt Moore]

I am building a bunk bed and need to turn 16 finials. This will definatley be the biggest turning project I have done. I have a Jet mini that should do just fine.

My question relates to the "process" on the lathe.
-should I do one at a time or 2 or 3 at a time on the lathe?

-I only have the basic screw in chuck that attaches the piece via screws. Is this going to work or do I need something else.

-Any tutorials that you know of that will help?

-Any other tips, ideas, issues, etc.

Thanks.

[Jim Kountz]

When you say screw in chuck do you mean a faceplate? If you could possibly swing it I would use a 4 jaw chuck or simply turn between centers. Some of the more seasoned guys here could probably tell you better than me though!!

[Dennis Ford]

I recommend that you turn them between centers, one at a time. Making the spindle long enough for two will increase the probability of vibration from the wood flexing. They won't all be exactly the same shape but that will not matter too much as long as they are the same length.

* Cut the blanks to length (make some extra blanks)
* Mark the center on each end (possibly a jig for this many)
* Make a pattern piece
* Mount them one at a time and turn round
* Mark location of features from pattern
* Turn, sand, then start the next one
* The first few will take a while, then they will get easier.;)

[Paul Atkins]

I've done a bunch of these in various forms and different methods. You could turn between centers and clean up the top end by hand. If you are going to put them on with a tenon, it can be on the post or the finial. I rarely use a chuck. Sometimes I make a faceplate with a stub tenon the size I need and drill the blank accordingly. I then hot-glue (!) it to the faceplate with 3 big drops of glue and press in for a half minute. The shear strength of the glue is pretty good, but when you are done a sharp knock with your palm will usually break it free. This really works. The stub tenon keeps it centered and If I need, I can put it on the lathe again. As far as doing a bunch at a time or one at a time - depends. If I am gluing them on to the faceplate I usually do them one at a time. If I turn between centers, I can rough all of them out, turn all the tenons, turn major diameters etc. all in turn so they are all the same. I don't use a spur center. If you screw up one you can make the others like it or start another one. I usually have an extra blank standing by. Once you get into 'the groove' It'll be easy and fun. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures.

[Matt Moore]

When you say screw in chuck do you mean a faceplate? If you could possibly swing it I would use a 4 jaw chuck or simply turn between centers. Some of the more seasoned guys here could probably tell you better than me though!!

Yes, faceplate.

[Matt Moore]

I've done a bunch of these in various forms and different methods. You could turn between centers and clean up the top end by hand. If you are going to put them on with a tenon, it can be on the post or the finial. I rarely use a chuck. Sometimes I make a faceplate with a stub tenon the size I need and drill the blank accordingly. I then hot-glue (!) it to the faceplate with 3 big drops of glue and press in for a half minute. The shear strength of the glue is pretty good, but when you are done a sharp knock with your palm will usually break it free. This really works. The stub tenon keeps it centered and If I need, I can put it on the lathe again. As far as doing a bunch at a time or one at a time - depends. If I am gluing them on to the faceplate I usually do them one at a time. If I turn between centers, I can rough all of them out, turn all the tenons, turn major diameters etc. all in turn so they are all the same. I don't use a spur center. If you screw up one you can make the others like it or start another one. I usually have an extra blank standing by. Once you get into 'the groove' It'll be easy and fun. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures.

I have not thought thru using a tenon yet but this makes sense. In your example of using a faceplate with a stub tenon, I assume the tenon is from the post and not the fenial?

I am guessing you use the face plate over and over?

Are you using regular hobby hot glue or something else?

Thanks for the help.

[Matt Moore]

I recommend that you turn them between centers, one at a time. Making the spindle long enough for two will increase the probability of vibration from the wood flexing. They won't all be exactly the same shape but that will not matter too much as long as they are the same length.

* Cut the blanks to length (make some extra blanks)
* Mark the center on each end (possibly a jig for this many)
* Make a pattern piece
* Mount them one at a time and turn round
* Mark location of features from pattern
* Turn, sand, then start the next one
* The first few will take a while, then they will get easier.;)

If I do it between centers, how do I deal with the top finials where there will be a hole from the point? The finials between the beds & on the feet won't matter of course. Thanks.

Are there any tools I would greatly benefit from while doing this. I just have a set of chisels & sand paper.

[Paul Atkins]

Yeah, I use the faceplates over and over - the glue sometimes rips a bit off here and there but I just true it up before the next piece. I use the stronger (not low temp) glue sometimes labeled for woodworking. The real rubbery stuff isn't that great but will work here. In the winter it gets hard real fast so you have to work quickly to keep it evenly 'squished'. I can see alot of guys right now rolling your eyes, but it works fast for production stuff. I've only had 3 or 4 pieces fly off in 15 or so years out of hundreds of pieces -mostly because I was in a hurry. I even use it on 30" diameter moulding profiles.
For turning between centers, make the blanks about 1/2" longer than finished length and turn leaving a small piece at the tailstock about 1/2" - 3/4" in diameter that you can saw off after you are done- this is assuming you are going to use the knob shape in the picture. It's easy then to sand and shape the little end by hand. You could use a 1" or 1 1/2" dowel to put them on too. You can turn them to fit your drills. I'd go out to the shop to take a picture or two, but it's 11:30 and icy out there. Tomorrow.

[Jim Becker]

If I do it between centers, how do I deal with the top finials where there will be a hole from the point?

Pre-drill the blanks and use the hole for centering it. A cone on the revolving center in the tailstock is easiest for this and if you don't have one, you can easily make one to slip over your existing "normal" center.

[Dave Marshall]

how old are the children that will be using these bunk beds? I think that finials - of any size - are dangerous on bunk beds for younger children. There is a serious potential for strangulation if pajama tops or sweatshirt tops get caught on them.

my 2cents

[Curt Fuller]

I'm pretty sure your Jet mini came with a drive spur and a live center for the tailstock. I'd turn the finials between centers. Depending on how you plan to attach them to the posts, if they have a tenon you can easily turn it while they're between centers. If the post has a tenon and the finial sits on that then you can pre-drill the hole with a forstner bit on a drill press and and slide it over the drive spur. The dimple from the forstner bit will serve as a center for the drive spur. Once you get the finial turned down to where there's just a nub holding it at the tailstock end just saw it off and sand it to match the contour of the ball. I've never had much luck with a screw chuck on anything bigger than a drawer pull and I don't have much luck with screws in endgrain using a face plate. But between centers seems to work for almost anything with he grain parallel to the lathe.
As for duplicating them, make one to use as a pattern, then mark the high and low points on each additional piece. Cut the coves and V's first using a caliper to match the diameters then round the beads.