Do you prefer A2 vs O1 for planes?

[Lyndon Graham]

I am a metallurgist and do understand the difference between the 2 alloys and that one stays sharper longer, but as for using in the shop, which to you prefer considering one sharpens easier than the other?

Thanks

[steve swantee]

I always thought that I would prefer the O1 for ease of sharpening, but after I installed a Lie-Nielsen A2 iron in my No4 Stanley last spring, I would have to say that it doesn't seem in my personal opinion to be all that much harder to sharpen than the O1 irons. As a bonus, they do seem to hold an edge a bit longer. But I try not to let my irons get too far gone before I touch them up, so this probably makes the sharpening go a lot easier.

Steve

[Jim Koepke]

My experience with different alloys in blades has been that a softer blade may take 5 strokes per grit and the harder blades may take 8 strokes per stone.

The numbers are just for comparison and based on relative occurrences.

If a soft blade has been used too long before sharpening, it will be more work to sharpen than a hard blade that was not allowed to deteriorate to such a point.

I do like my Hock high carbon blades. I agree with Ron Hock that the HC will come up a hair sharper than the A1. For most practical purposes, this may not be a noticeable difference in the quality of wood surface.

just my 2¢,

jim

[Luke Townsley]

I live in a high humidity area that is quite polluted. In other words, things rust quickly.

I seem to have better luck with A2 so far.

[Andy Hsieh]

i based all my purchases on non-A2 in the past but am starting to explore the benefits of A2 now that I understand sharpening a bit better. I think A2 was a bit scarier for me so I stayed away from it due to the hardness - not really thinking about the benefit.

My stones are all oil - soft hard and black with a strop/compound for final edge and seems to work good on O1. Will probably explore Waterstones for the A2 as the tools dictate the need.

Andy

[Alan DuBoff]

O1 for me, most always. Sharpens easier and can achieve a sharper edge. I'd rather have the sharper edge for a shorter amount of time.

You can alway forge O1 also, where A2 is tricky to harden properly. O1 can be tempered in oil.

EDIT: Topics like this have been beat to death in the past, could help if you search the archives to get some of these questions since they have been hashed out a lot in the past.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=75108

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=978705

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18809

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42607&cat=1,41182,43698 (see sidebar)

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/bladetest.html

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=45635

[Chuck Tringo]

I like the A2 that came with my Veritas LA Smoother and cant say Ive noticed a difference sharpening as I use a WS 3000, laziness pays off in this case :D

[Randy Klein]

IME, A2 doesn't hold an edge very well below a 30 degree bevel. So anything that requires a bevel less than 30, I use O1 - shooting, block planes, paring chisels. Anything that requires bevels greater than 30, I use A2 for the edge durability. Except for smoothing irons, than I use O1 for that little smidgen of extra sharpness.

[Derek Cohen]

Randy makes an important point, and I would have raised this if he hadn't. Ideally you want to use O1 steel if grinding/honing a 25 degree bevel angle for a BU Jack, such as when using it on a shooting board.

Having said that, I have not experienced chipping from my LV A2 blades when used in this connection.

O1 steel does hone more easily than A2 since the latter is more wear resistant - not a lot, however, but this is enough to create more difficulties for those using older honing mediums, such as oil stones and sandpaper. If you go to a more modern waterstone, such as Shaptons, or to diamond paste, I doubt that you would notice any differences in honing effort.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Lyndon Graham]

IME, A2 doesn't hold an edge very well below a 30 degree bevel. So anything that requires a bevel less than 30, I use O1 - shooting, block planes, paring chisels. Anything that requires bevels greater than 30, I use A2 for the edge durability. Except for smoothing irons, than I use O1 for that little smidgen of extra sharpness.

Wow, that is something you can't find in a book. Thanks (and to all a thanks)