Router table miter track question

[Howard Miller]

I am installing miter tracks from back to front so that my fence can slide.

Is there a problem with having the track run all the way from back to front?

The reason for this is I am cutting a dado with table say, and if I cut half the distance (12 vs. 24"), the end of cut is not clean. I can rout the end, but it still is not as clean as I would like.

Table is 3/4" MDF, and depth of cut for miter track is 1/2". I am going to put a support board under the table where the dado cuts are.

[Mike Wilkins]

Can you use a router, and then clean up the rounded ends with a chisel??
But the only reason a full length slot from front to back would be a concern would be if you wanted a miter slot up front for a coping sled, feather boards or some other type of device.
Just my $ .02 worth.

[glenn bradley]

I would rather not have the track running across my feed path. On this bevel sled I drilled counter bore holes to allow the t-bolts to go in from the top and then routed up to them for a clean stop.

104036

Depending on your fence design, your track (I think you mean t-track when you say miter slot) should not have to go past the center of the bit when looking rear of table toward front of table. This would leave your material path solid, no? Here's an example of my old router table from behind the fence as well. Just food for thought.

104037

[Mike Cutler]

Howard.

You do not need to do it. I did,and regret it.
Mine only goes 2/3 rds of the way across the table and then meets up with another T-Track that runs the length,for a miter slide.

Glen has it right. It only needs to extend across the table far enough for the fence face to extend beyond the center of the router an inch or two

[Howard Miller]

Thanks for all the feedback. Here is a pic of the layout prior to the cutting of the dado slots. This has the rails at 12", half the table depth.

[Jim Becker]

I would rather not have the track running across my feed path.

I feel the same way. Anything with the potential to catch the workpiece would be uncomfortable for me.

[Jeff Bratt]

I wouldn't want those running all the way to the front of the table. It's easy to route the grooves for the tracks and then square up the ends with a chisel. Pics of mine at - http://home.roadrunner.com/~jeffnann/WoodWorking/Shop/Shop.html#Router_Table_

[Howard Miller]

Jeff, nice set-up and shop. Your shop presents some good ideas.

[Rick Potter]

The slot will be hidden by the fence anway, won't it? I vote to stop it too.

Add me to the list who think you should do it with a router.

Rick Potter

[Greg Hines, MD]

My router table has a similar design, except that I use T-track instead of miter track, which works well.

Doc

[Andrew Nemeth]

I have almost the same table set up. I made my top out of corian so cleaning up the corners with a chisel was not an easy option. Instead I sanded the corners of the miter track to the same radius as the router bit used to make the dado. Unfortunatly, in my haste to get the top finished for another project that had to get done, I only ran the track to the centerline of the router. I did not realize my error untill after I had epoxied the rails in place. So, while I do not like the idea of having the rails cross the feedpath of stock, I would mak sure you give yourself enough room to be able to slide the fence completly over the largest bit you could ever imagine spinning in your table.

[Dave Falkenstein]

...Table is 3/4" MDF, and depth of cut for miter track is 1/2". I am going to put a support board under the table where the dado cuts are.

I would recommend using two pieces of 3/4" MDF for your top, glued together using contact cement and some screws from the bottom in spots that will not interfere with anything. Your top will be weak at the dados, even if you add some support. I have a detailed document describing how to make a 1-1/2" thick top - email me through SMC and include a return email if you would like a copy.

[Dan Henry]

The 1st router table that I made I used a plan that was in the early Shop Notes and it had clamps at the out side end of the fence that clamps to the table top and it held the fence very well. I have now a Woodhaven top and a fence somewhat like the New Yankee Workshop plan and still use the clamping method to hold the fence and it still works. I do not have any tracks or slots in the top as I think it is easier to use a square block against the fence rather than having a track for a miter gage. No mater where the fence is clamped, the square block will be square to the router bit. I have nothing for the piece to catch on this way. I have drilled a couple of holes in the top to hold a feather jig to hold pieces against the fence.

My 2cents worth.

Dan

[Howard Miller]

Dave, I sent the e-mail.

Thanks,
Howard