Raised Panel on Front & Back ??

[Matt Moore]

See the picture. I see now why the manufacturer put the slats on the panel rather than a raised on both sides.

How can I do a raised panel on both sides. I was going to use a rail & stile set but that will definately not work as the back part of the panel will protrude too much.

So I was thinking that I could just center the 1/4" grove but then I realized how far the raised panel bits cut and a 3/4" panel is not going to be thick enough and even a 1" may not be.

Any ideas?

[Chris Kennedy]

Just an idea . . .

How about making two thinner panels and gluing them together?

Cheers,

Chris

[Dave Stuve]

Hi Matt,

I like centering my panel in the frame, so I raise both sides on my router table. Just figure out how much you need to raise the panel, divide by two, and raise each side of the panel that much. (say you have a 3/4" frame, 1/4" slot, then you need to raise your panel a total of 1/2" or 1/4" on each side.)

I often make a panel that is thinner than the frame - say 5/8" for a 3/4" frame. That way you can raise one side more than the other and it won't stick out on either side and 'feels' centered.

Dave

[Matt Moore]

Hi Matt,

I like centering my panel in the frame, so I raise both sides on my router table. Just figure out how much you need to raise the panel, divide by two, and raise each side of the panel that much. (say you have a 3/4" frame, 1/4" slot, then you need to raise your panel a total of 1/2" or 1/4" on each side.)

I often make a panel that is thinner than the frame - say 5/8" for a 3/4" frame. That way you can raise one side more than the other and it won't stick out on either side and 'feels' centered.

Dave

Ok, so you have found that even though the "raising" is shallow, it still looks ok? I was thinking I would try to make the panels 7/8 if possible or 3/4 and then raise them.

We are going to do cove. What size should I do. I see everything from 2" to 3 1/2".

[Charles McCracken]

Bits like these make a small "raised panel look" on the back:

http://www.freudtools.com/images/product/backcutter1.jpg

Not exactly a double panel but may be a good solution to your dilemma.

[Lee Schierer]

You can make raised panels easily with a table saw. Making them two sided would not be a problem with the set up shown here: Raised Panels on a Table Saw (http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/raisedpanel.html)

This method is safe and fast.

[Peter Quinn]

Amana makes cope and stick router sets for double sided cabinet doors which will work, I believe they handle 7/8" through 1 3/8" doors. This will allow you to use a similarly sized panel thickness raised on both sides with a 1/4" tongue. Or you could use a tongue and groove set and minimum 7/8" thick panels for square edge frames or applied molding as in your picture. A panel raiser meant for 5/8" thick panel material (for a 3/4" door with a flat back) will give you a 7/8" double sided panel with a 1/4" tongue.

I have shaper panel raisers that allow for a 3/4" thick panel to be raised on both sides with a 1/4"-3/8" tongue. The cutters are meant to raise a 1/2" thick panel on one side with a flat back or a 3/4" thick panel on both sides. The profile angle is subtle but it makes a convincing look. Perhaps look for router panel raisers for 1/2" thick raised panels? I know they make router bits for 3/4" panels and 5/8" panels with no back cut, not sure about the 1/2" thickness.

[Charles McCracken]

Another option is to use a cove raised panel bit for both sides. These can be adjusted for height and the only effect is changing the width of the reveal. A 5/8" stock cove raised panel bit would give the widest reveal.

[Jerry Olexa]

Make 2 separate panels (thinner) and glue together or use a panel bit with a backcutter which provides a smaller rear panel. Just MHO....

[David DeCristoforo]

Panel raising bits (or cutters) are designed to work with a specific stock thickness. So bit that is configured for 3/4" material will not yield a full profile in 5/8" or 1" material. The only way to get a full cut on both sides is to increase the panel thickness to double the thickness the bit is intended for minus the thickness of one "tongue". So a two sided paned formed with a bit designed for 3/4" stock will have to be a minimum of 1 1/4" thick to have a full profile on both sides.

[Peter Quinn]

Panel raising bits (or cutters) are designed to work with a specific stock thickness. So bit that is configured for 3/4" material will not yield a full profile in 5/8" or 1" material. The only way to get a full cut on both sides is to increase the panel thickness to double the thickness the bit is intended for minus the thickness of one "tongue". So a two sided paned formed with a bit designed for 3/4" stock will have to be a minimum of 1 1/4" thick to have a full profile on both sides.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say, He just said it in English!:D But...with some 5/8" panel raisers you can cheat the flat that seperates the profile from the field on both sides a bit, run them a bit light if you will and still make a decent panel raised both sides in 7/8" thickness if 1" proves too thick for your needs. Or you can use a cove profile with no distinct flat which makes it even easier if that profile suits your needs. I searched for panel raisers for 1/2" material and can't find any for routers. They tend to make up the lack of depth visually by making the profile wider which may exceed the maximum radius a router can spin? The diameter on mine is better than 6"!

[Jim Becker]

We are going to do cove. What size should I do. I see everything from 2" to 3 1/2".

I have to turn that question back to you...what size would look best proportionally with the design?

[Joe Chritz]

I can't tell from the pic but is there any reason you couldn't use something like they do to make doors? Other than needing a shaper to spin the cutters.

It seems like that entire assembly could be constructed as one piece very similar to a 6 panel door.

Other than that I would attack it by raising both sides of a thicker panel. 1 1/4" for a full profile (with 5/8 stock panel raiser) but with a cove you can cheat the profile and it still works good.

I have a couple Freud panel raisers for my shaper that are for 3/4" stock and I can cheat the profile on the ogee cutter and back cut and it stays flush front and back to a 3/4" door. The cove is even easier to make this happen with.

Joe