sanding questions

[Jerry Lawrence]

Ok...I almost give up. This seems like it should be the most basic of woodworking processes, but can someone give any advice on the tricks to sanding on the lathe, specifically pieces for pens? Seems like no matter what I do, I always end up with fine scratches on the wood. The harder the wood, the more scratches there are (i.e. ebony and cocobolo). Should the lathe be turning slow or fast? Should I be applying hard or light pressure? Should I be moving my hand along the length of the turning quickly or slowly? I have tried starting with more coarse grits, and also with finer grits. Anywhere from a 180 starting grit, progressing through 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and also tried starting with the 320 or 400. Sorry if this has all been covered before, tried a search but didn't get the answers to my specific questions. Thanks for the help.

[Jim Kountz]

I just learned that after sanding with each grit with the lathe running to shut down and sand with the lathe off with the grain. Do this with each grit and you will be amazed at the difference. I too was getting all kinds of small scratched until I tried this method. Others here can probably tell you more about it but this works for me.

[Reed Gray]

If you are seeing scratches after you are done it is because you aren't getting them all out before advancing to the next grit. Sanding at slower speeds is best because heat can and will cause checking/cracks. If you are getting hot fingers, you are sanding with too much pressure and/or too much speed. I would think with pens, you can sand in the 500 to 1000 rpm range because they have a small diameter. A 6 inch bowl, not more than 500 rpm. My warped bowls, powersanding at about 20 rpm. You have to experiment. You can also try sanding along the length (with the fibers/grain) before going to the next grit. This can hilight some remaining scratches because you will have 2 different scratch patterns. For me, general rule is to sand till I think I have all the marks out, then sand it a bit more. Having a good light is a big help also.
robo hippy

[David Drickhamer]

Make sure you use all the grits course to fine and don't skip any. After sanding with the lathe on, turn it off and sand the length of the pen to remove any scratches. Sand with your lathe running at a slow speed. I don't feel it's necessary to use a lot of pressure. Light pressure and the slow speed will help to reduce heat caused by friction. I'd also recommend using a good quality sand paper and don't over use it. Sand paper is cheap, grab a fresh piece. Don't rely on sandpaper for removing a lot of material. Using a skew will eliminate a lot of need to sand. Keep your sandpaper moving to prevent over sanding in one area and creating "low spots"
Dave

[Don Carter]

Jerry:
You have gotten some great advice. Sanding slow and then stop and sand with the grain with each grit. Clean the pen off with DA or compressed air, or just wipe off very well between grits. If you have a reversing lathe, you can try that reversing between grits. When I have a really troublesome problem, I will even go to wet sanding with BLO as the wetting agent. Let us know how it works.
All the best.

Don

[Scott Lux]

Ditto what they said about sanding lengthwise on spindle work (pens included) before going up a grit. I also wipe off before progressing. It helps maximize the sandpaper life, and keeps any stray grits from scratching in at the new level sp.

I sand at my lowest speed (650 on my mini-lathe) and use a delicate touch. Let the abrasive do its job, pushing it on harder only generates heat as I see it. When I try a bowl sometime, I may have to find a way to slow it more.

Also, Don't be too proud to start with an even coarser grit. I've been known to pull out the 80 grit gouge on occasion. It's tedius, but it'll get you there.

Lux

[Bernie Weishapl]

You have gotten some pretty good advice. Sand lightly at slow speeds. You don't need a lot of pressure for the sand paper to do it's job. One other thing is make sure you clean the piece off before going to the next grit. I blow it of with my air compressor. Sometimes I will wipe down with mineral spirits to clean the piece and it will show if you have scratches. As Jim said with each grit I shut off the lathe and sand from end to end with the grain as I turn the lathe by hand. Clean off and start with the next grit and don't skip any.

[Mark Hix]

Everyone else covered it pretty well. One other thing......sand like someone else was buying your sand paper. Don't try to stretch it, when it is gone, it is gone.....worn out 320 is not the same as 400. ....

The kids asked me what to get me for Christmas, I said "Sand paper, lots of sand paper"......They already thought I was nuts, this just reinforced it.

[Dan Forman]

If you plan on doing a few pens, a set of Micro Mesh will be a big help, goes much finer than sandpaper, and will last for years with occasional cleaning. I start with 220, 320, 400 paper, then switch to the Micro Mesh, and go from 1800 to 12,000 (not the same numbering system as sandpaper), then buff with Tripoli and White Diamond compounds. You still have to sand with the grain with the lathe off each time you change grits, until about 4000 MM, after that it really doesn't matter.

Dan

[Marvin Hasenak]

Great advice. The best advice I ever got about sanding is use sand paper like someone else is paying for it, if it looks used it is time to get a new piece. You can waste a lot of time trying to stretch the use of sandpaper, when the sandpaper is worn out you aren't accomplishing anything Next best piece of advice I ever got about sanding is buy the best you can afford, the cheap stuff just adds more work to the woodworking.

Marvin

[Richard Madison]

Another detail: If you are making dust (however fine, with whatever grit), you are sanding. If you are not making dust, the paper is worn out and you are just burnishing the surface. Get a new piece of sandpaper.

[Jon McCoy]

Don't be too proud to start with an even coarser grit. I've been known to pull out the 80 grit gouge on occasion. It's tedius, but it'll get you there.

The biggest mistake I made as a new turner was not using the lower grits, and not taking small enough steps in grit. Looking at my earlier work reminds me of that folly. I read threads where folks only used 220 and 400, but I now start at 120, then hit 150, 180, 220, 300, 400, 600. And I keep the 60/80/100 grits handy.

Another mistake was trying to fully use up each piece of paper, sometimes I had a little row of scraps lined up on the shelf, each with a fingernail of grit left. Now I just tear a chunk off the roll, use it, and toss it away. At $10 for a 25m roll, that's a penny per inch -- awfully foolish to pinch that penny.

-jon-

[Tom Lewis]

Great advice. One thing I would add is sometimes one will sand with say 120 grit and decide to move to 180 grit while there are still some marks the 120 grit hasn't gotten out. Well, if 120 grit hasn't gotten the scratches out what makes anyone think a smaller grit will. Be sure to get ALL the previous scratches out before moving on to a smaller grit.

[Harvey Schneider]

Use high quality sand paper. Cheap sandpaper doesn't last and isn't as consistent in grit size.
Keep the sandpaper moving, if there is a bit of grit that is slightly larger than the rest, it will make a grove around the pen. By keeping the paper in motion you randomize the scratch and make it less noticeable.
Sanding is less fun than turning. Learn to use a skew to clean up the surface.

[Russ Sears]

Hope this isn't a hijack but it fits with the discussion: what are some good brands of sandpaper? I discovered that Harbor Freight isn't one of them.

Just to add my .02, I switch to wet sanding with mineral oil as the lube when I get to 400 grit.

[Paul Atkins]

The best sandpaper I have found is Eagle brand - used to be made by Komatsubura -now Kovax. I get it at the auto paint store. It has a bunch of names -Finkat Eagle - Soft and Dry -The grains are very consistent in size and very durable. This stuff lasts 5 times as long as garnet. I use it on the lathe till it's shredded and it still cuts. They also make a wet and dry paper too I think up to 3000. The coarsest I use is 120 which really hogs the wood off. I usually start with 220. Even at 50 cents a sheet it's a bargain.