Smoother Plane

[Vince Shriver]

I do some work with hand tools and I'm looking for a smooth plane. I have a #5 Bailey Jack which is my go to plane along with a Veritas standard block plane; both excellent for what they do. I have a #4 Bailey and it planes more like a scrub plane than a smoother; it leaves tracks where is has been. I'm thinking of an ECE wooden Improved Smoother - does anyone use one and, if so, what is your opinion? I don't have a wooden plane, but I read great things about this tool. Thanks, Vince

[John Dykes]

I'd be concerned about why your current smoother isn't working the way you'd like. I personally believe fully understanding your tools is one of the keys to unlocking their full potential. Point being, if you decide to spend more money on another smoother, and a few weeks later - it starts acting funny.... What do you do then?

I'd suggest learning with the plane you have - so those skills might translate to any plane you might own.

But with that said - I recently sold my LN #4, and traded up to a Lee Valley Bevel-Up Smoother - and saved some money. The BUS looks to be cheaper than the Primus (which I know nothing of). But of a truth, the LV BUS is amazing - unfortunately... but that's another story...

[Chuck Tringo]

I got the LV Low Angle Smoother instead of the BU Smoother because I intend to use it on a shooting board (if i ever finish it....that's another matter :rolleyes:) and I have never held as fine a tool in my life. After about 5 minutes on the WS 3000 I was making paper thin shavings. I do believe that you should learn to use the tool that you have, but since I dont have a large amount of hand tools, I will tend to look at Lee Valley first.

[Vince Shriver]

I'm looking for feedback from anyone who has actually used the ECE Smoother. Much appreciated. Vince

[Roger Bell]

For one thing, the lignum sole is slicker than any metallic plane. Thus there is no need for continual waxing, etc. to "reduce" friction, as the lignum vitae does that naturally. That is a huge plus in my mind. Secondly, the adjuster is far more precise and easier to use than any Bailey or Bailey "inspired" mechanism....which is sloppy by comparison.

It is lighter than a metallic plane as it is mostly wood. Could be good, could be not so good, depending on what you want or need in terms of mass.

The mouth of the Primus Reform smoother is adjustable, like a block plane, without futzing around with removing a lever cap, the iron/CB assembly and loosening screws, etc., etc. etc. as with the Bailey pattern. There is no slop in the mechanism and no wheeling the adjuster back and forth. For a person of my temperment, that is a plus. For most, it is probably no big deal.

On the other hand, "the Bismark" as Frank Klauz characterizes these planes (which he uses, by the way....at least in his videos), are built differently and the body mechanics of how they is gripped , etc. ARE different. Those used to the Bailey can sometimes get used to it and some folks cannot. People are most comfortable with what they are used to. I can switch back and forth between the two with relative ease....as with Windows and Mac....but they are really different.

The factory irons are what they are, with no aftermarket substitutions that I know of. IMO, they are good enough, but your choices are limited to the single iron from the manufacturer. .

I have had mine about ten years and have it set up for the finest shavings. I personally consider it quite superior to the Bailey and the Bedrock patterns (regardless of maker) as well as the BUS patterns but not as good as my infills in terms of performance on the tricky stuff. Others might disagree, but it is me that is talking here and you asked for opinions. Other wooden planes that are right up there in performance are the Knight and, of course, the Clark and Williams.....a very superior tool if there ever was one... But these are strictly traditional and lack the mechanical adjuster. Both of these differ quite a bit from the Ece design.

And, by the way, I also agree that you might be well served by diagnosing what is going on with your present #4. You can get that to work for you well enough, I'm sure. It is simply a matter of trial and error.

[Vince Shriver]

Thanks, Roger, exactly what I was looking for.

[Mark Singer]

I also have the Reform Smoother 711 and it is one of my favorites. It seems to connect the user to the work in a special way. It is light and makes fine shavings .... I really like it!

[Johnny Kleso]

I had the model without the moving mouth, It was a nice plane but I thought I would stick with all metal planes and not branch out into wood and metal plane..

Your Plane Tracks problem comes from to square of a edge.. You need to add some Camber (Slight Raidus) to the bottom.. If you cambered the blade .006 (Thickness of a two sheet of computer paper) at each corner this would remove your tracks and is common on all smoother planes..

If you buy a woody you will have to learn to do this on that smoother as well or you will get tracks..

All you need to do is press on each corner of your blade while sharping and take several strokes and that should add enough camber to stop your tracks..

[Terry Beadle]

I recommend the Knight smoother over the ECE. It has an IPE sole so you get the same smooth naturally oily sole. I'd also recommend opting for the Galoot Tools mid-range blade which I believe is around $80. The plane is about $170.

I have the ECE Jack and it's a very good plane but the blade is not superior, just good. The ECE German Steel blade is IMO better than a stock Stanley for sure but not in league with the thick 1/4 inch O1 blades.

You do have to learn how to use a plane hammer to adjust it. That should take all of about 15 minutes to get the basics.

Steve puts side set screws near the mouth to keep the blade anchored but it can still pivot. This I think is an advantage for quicker re-sharpening processes. The adjustable mouth piece really is effective. Also you can make your own additional mouth pieces if you want a mouth piece with wider tolerances so that you can use the plane as a small jack plane or block plane.

The coffin smoother is very flexible in pulling or pushing the plane so that when you meet grain changes, you can quickly avoid tear out. The ECE will do the same but a bit more awkward tho.

I've also noted in using the ECE Jack that the blade tensioning system takes a little tuning also. The blade tends to move out of horizontal aleignment if you don't have the tension set correctly.

If you are still set on the ECE Primus smoother, you won't be disappointed. It is a very good plane and will give excellent service. IMO thou, the Knight smoother is superior for the same amount of money.

Happy Holidays! and good shavings to you.

[Joel Goodman]

I have an ECE smoother -- I still prefer my LN 62 BU (jack) for most smoothing. I know the lighter weight is supposed to be a good feature of the ECE but I prefer a little more weight, especially with the 50 degree york pitch. I also think the LN steel is better. It's not that I don't think the ECE is a good plane -- I just think there are better ones for a general purpose smoother.