Woodworking Technique and Procedure Questions

[Anthony Whitesell]

I picked up a Woodcraft magazine (either the latest or previous issue) and saw the plans for making a herringbone serving tray (much like a breadboard with sides). I thought I'd like to give it a try. But I have a few questions about the plans and a possible better way(s) to make it.

1. The plans call for 2 sets of 13 strips that are 1/2" thick, 3/4" wide, and 24" long cut from 1/2" thick stock. Could I use 3/4" stock and cut them 1/2" wide then turn them 90 degrees for the glue up? I'm questioning the stability difference between glueing 3/4" wide strips cut from 1/2" thick stock side to side versus glueing 1/2" wide strips cut from 3/4" thick stock turned 90 degrees for the glue up.

2. The plans call for glueing the 13 strips into a 24"x9 3/4" square panel then cutting the panel on a 50 degree angle into 1 3/4" wide strips. As I can see this throws away two large triangle shaped pieces at each end of the board.

What would be the issue with staggering the 13 strips on a 50 degree angle during the glueup/assembly? If this has the possiblity of working, it would eliminate a lot of waste.

After I use the miter gauge to make the first cut at 50 degrees the end of the board would now be straight. Do I need to use the miter gauge for the subsequent cuts or can I switch to the rip fence? I can't see an issue with using the rip fence other than the end of the board will be not square to the work piece, but the end towards the fence will be straight.

[Paul Atkins]

Looks like to me you answered your own questions pretty well. That's how I would cut the strips because most wood is flatsawn, so turning 90 degrees would get you quarter to rift. Lot more stable. The only problem I see with the glueup would be the pushstick at the saw not being very secure at 50 degrees. I hate to throw anything away too, so I'd make a cheese board with the extra or just put in the 'get to it later' pile. (which is about knee high now I think.)

[Tom Veatch]

1. The plans call for 2 sets of 13 strips that are 1/2" thick, 3/4" wide, and 24" long cut from 1/2" thick stock. Could I use 3/4" stock and cut them 1/2" wide then turn them 90 degrees for the glue up? I'm questioning the stability difference between glueing 3/4" wide strips cut from 1/2" thick stock side to side versus glueing 1/2" wide strips cut from 3/4" thick stock turned 90 degrees for the glue up.

I agree with Paul. If you started with the usual flat/plain sawn stock, doing it the way you propose would give you a more stable end item than the original plan. If you start with quarter/rift sawn stock, I'd stick with the original plans.


2...What would be the issue with staggering the 13 strips on a 50 degree angle during the glueup/assembly? If this has the possiblity of working, it would eliminate a lot of waste.

It certainly would. The only waste with your proposal would be the little triangle serrations on the edges. However, based on the next step in your proposal, I'd use a straight reference stop/jig to align the points on the corners of the strips on one side of the glueup. That will allow the points on that side to act as a straight reference edge at 50° to the axis of the strips.


After I use the miter gauge to make the first cut at 50 degrees the end of the board would now be straight. Do I need to use the miter gauge for the subsequent cuts or can I switch to the rip fence? I can't see an issue with using the rip fence other than the end of the board will be not square to the work piece, but the end towards the fence will be straight.

If you ensure the points on one side of the glueup are collinear, they can be used against the rip fence to trim the points off the opposite edge. Then, use that newly trued side against the miter gauge to square off an adjacent side. Then use those two sides against the rip fence to finish. Don't see any need for a 50° miter cut if you align the points on one side during the glueup.

[Lee Schierer]

I agree that you could stagger the strips during glue up and save some material. Remember magazine articles are written to keep it simple, not necessarily to save materials.

Using the rip fence to cut pieces off the 50 degree staggered board would be risky in my opinion. It is generally not a good idea to use the fence for cutting pieces that are wider than the length of the cut. Pushing a 1-3/4 inch wide strip between the blade and the fence where the trailing edge is angled 50 degrees might allow the push stick to slip and bind the piece part way through the cut. I probably is better to set up a stop block and use the miter gauge to get all the pieces the same length.

[Anthony Whitesell]

The pushing on an angled board was one of my concerns as wel,l but while reading another post I was reminded of another option...the Grrripper.

Thank you for the replies, I thought I was on the right track but needed to be sure I hadn't over looked something.

I'll try to take pictures and let you know how it works out.