Resawing on table saw?

[Matt P]

Need to resaw some 1" inch thick x 3.5" wide x 2' long walnut. Want to resaw it into two thinner boards. Have a Sears 10" benchtop bandsaw that is not very precise, or powerful, etc. Don't have any shop space (I work in my bathroom in a studio apartment in Manhattan.. can't buy a bigger bandsaw) I've read that you can resaw on a table saw, by cutting almost 1/2 way through, then flipping the board, etc.. Can I do this safely? Note my stock is pretty small in width.

Thanks in advance!
Matt
(This forum is great and really helps me.)

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Yes, this works fine. Use a push block that offers really good control, not just a stick, and take your time. Before I had a bandsaw, I made box lids for Christmas gifts this way.

[Matt P]

ok thanks Steve - how do I use a push block if the piece is a narrow, vertical piece against the fence? Do I also need a feather board to hold the piece against the fence?


Yes, this works fine. Use a push block that offers really good control, not just a stick, and take your time. Before I had a bandsaw, I made box lids for Christmas gifts this way.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Matt, what I do is use a long handled push block that is basically a foot long board, with 1/2" or so removed fron the bottom edge, except for a 1" or so piece at the rear, that serves to push the stock. I'll try to post a photo tomorrow. This type of stick lets you put pressure forward on the stock, and to maintain even feed with no reposition. Apply a small amount of side ways pressure to keep teh stock on the fence, but don't put any pressure after the cut, as it is easy to ruin a piece. Picture is worth a thousand, so I'll post one ASAP.

[Bill Huber]

Before I got my band saw I did it just like Steve said.

I did use a thin kerf blade which help with my under power saw.

Here is what I did.....

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[Mike Cutler]

Matt

You can also resaw a much wider board by using the techniques outlined and getting a nice hand ripsaw, which would overcome the limitations of your bandsaw.
The "H" that is formed by putting that material through the table saw acts a guide for the ripsaw. Clean it all up with a hand plane and you're good to go.

The bathroom huh? That has to get interesting at times.

[BOB OLINGER]

Matt,

I was faced with about the same challenge as I am resawing some red oak to 1/2' thickness to run through my moulding machine to make shutter slats. Although I have a 10" Delta Commercial saw, I think the blade selection is more important. I purchased a Freud thin kerf rip blade (LU87R) and it worked great. I just started my project, so have a lot more to go. Others might suggest an alternate blade. My opinion, blade selection is most important.

[Stephen Edwards]

Ditto on the blade selection! The thin kerf Freud blades make all the difference in the world.

Before I got my bandsaw, and still sometimes, I use a thin notched (long) push stick to push the board through the saw.....and another stick or small board to keep pressure against the fence. That works well and is safe if you don't have a feather board. Remember to not stand directly behind the board that you're sawing......a little off to one side.

Bill's idea on the push stick is even better.

I cut a little MORE than half way through on the first cut. Flip the board and make the second cut. Remember keep the side pressure (hand held block or feather board) in front of the blade. Otherwise, you'll bind the board and be subject to kickback.

Good Luck!

[Ray Newman]

Yes you can do it that way on TS.

But I strong advise & urge you to install a low profile splitter/riving knife to prevent kickback in case the wood closes on the blade.

There are some inexpensive after-market ones available, like:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=138-329&search=Table%20Saw%20Splitters&smode=

I have a friend who had a piece of wood violently come back on him when he did what you are attempting to do w/o a low profile plitter. You never know what wood will do when it is cut/resawn in that fashion.

Also, as one poster said don’t install a feather board on the out feed side of the board so as not to close or pinch the board on the blade.

Incrementally raise the blade for a better quality cut & lessen motor strain.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Matt, Bills drawing is exactly what I was talking about. That push block lets you put down pressure on the stack past the blade, which is why I use it for most everything. On different cuts, like thin stock, you can let the blade run right through the push block.

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

I haven't seen anyone else mention it - I believe, in addition to the riving knife/low profile splitter, a feather board, and a good push stick, it's super important that your fence is accurately setup and dead on parallel with your blade. I don't believe you want any binding whatsoever...


I'm curious to other's thoughts about that. Some say set the fence 1/1000th wider at the back of the blade. I personally prefer to keep it dead on...especially for a resaw operation...

[Russ Sears]

You'll also want to make sure your saw blade is 90 degrees to your table. If it's off a bit, you'll have more cleanup to do on the cut side.

[Lee Schierer]

Use a dedicated 24 tooth rip blade for this cut (thin kerf is acceptable).

Make the cut in at least four passes, always keeping the same side toward the fence.

Make sure you have a zero clearance insert when making this cut.

Make sure your saw is properly aligned to minimize burning and to avoid binding whch will produce kickbacks.

Use push sticks and don't stand directly in line with either half of the piece being cut.

If you have anothe piece of scrap or lesser value wood, try the cut in it first so you get the hang of doing it.

I've tried the saw part way through leaving the middle portion to cut by hand and frankly it is a lot of work even with a very sharp hand rip saw.

[Chris Padilla]

Personally, I wouldn't resaw on a TS but many folks have successfully done it over and over.

I'd take another look at that bandsaw you have and see if you can make it work for you. Practice on it some more before you tackle the real McCoy. Afterall, this is where bandsaws (well, most of 'em) are supposed to shine. I have zero experience with your particular bandsaw but just perhaps you can make it work and cut more safely....

[David Keller NC]

"Have a Sears 10" benchtop bandsaw that is not very precise, or powerful, etc. Don't have any shop space (I work in my bathroom in a studio apartment in Manhattan.. can't buy a bigger bandsaw) I've read that you can resaw on a table saw, by cutting almost 1/2 way through, then flipping the board, etc.. Can I do this safely? Note my stock is pretty small in width."

I'll suggest an answer to the last question first. No, you can't do this safely at a table saw. There are lots of people that do it, have done it, and will continue to do it without any incidents. But safety is predicated on what can happen, what the consequences are, and what the likelyhood is, not whether or not it's happened to you in the past. In this case, it's fairly difficult to install a low-profile splitter that will absolutely ensure that the kerf will not close and kick the board back at 90 miles an hour. It can be done, but because of the geometry of the saw cut, you'll need to custom-shape the splitter to stand back no more than about 1/4" from the blade along all points of the arc, and it must be precisely the same thickness as the kerf. One of the aspects of this type of cut is that boards are often case-hardened by the kiln drying process, and they will want to bow towards the heart of the board - which is really dangerous on a table saw, and completely inconsequential on a bandsaw.

Given the size of the stock you're trying to resaw, I would go with your bench-top bandsaw. If you will make a "point fence" to do this, install a narrow blade (3/16" is a good size), carefully mark the top edge of your board as a guide, and go slowly, even your saw will get through the walnut relatively quickly.

[Paul Atkins]

Talk about dedication! How do you get a tablesaw and a bandsaw into a studio apt. bathroom anyway? It's a good thing you don't have to rip a 16 footer. I've resawn loads of wood on the tablesaw. You can raise the saw 1/4" at a time and run the stuff through multiple times that will help take out any pinch tendencies. Dry walnut is pretty stable in general. Another way is to rip each side up an inch depth or so and then take it to the bandsaw to cut the center . This will take a bit more cleanup, but is a bit safer. (Send a picture of the 'shop')

[Matt P]

Thank you everyone. One question, with a 3.5" wide x 1" thick x 2' long board, do I have to leave an "H" and finish the cut by hand, or can I cut all the way through on the second cut?
p.s. I've attached pics of my "workshop." In the second pic, underneath the sawdust is my shower razor. lol.

[John Sanford]

I'm with David K on this. You can do it on the tablesaw. I have, but only because I didn't have any other option at the time, and didn't know better. Since you have a bandsaw, you should use it, especially since you're working in a small non-workshoppy type of space. Somehow, I don't think you really want the excitement of a kickback ricocheting around your bathroom! :eek:

The bandsaw should be able to handle this cut as well as the tablesaw, since I doubt you have a cabinet saw in there. Today, even though I no longer have a bandsaw, I'll forgo resawing rather than do it on the tablesaw.

[David Keller NC]

Wow - Are you ever a candidate for a hand-tool shop! I can't imagine the domestic disturbance that would occur if I filled the tub up with router chips!

In answer to your question, you're better off not cutting out the central stem of the "H" on the table saw, because there's a chance that the piece between the raised blade and the fence will be kicked back when the cut is mostly completed (the featherboard will no longer be pushing that piece against the fence.

Don't do this if you're not comfrotable with it. Again, it's incorrect to estimate safety by how many people chime in on a forum with "I did it with no problems" - the sample size is too small, and those that have had accidents and are now nick-named "stumpy" tend not to post to safety threads... There's probably good reason why Marc Adams doesn't allow this type of cut on a table saw at his woodworking school, period.

[BOB OLINGER]

I appreciate the numerous posts concerning the safety of using the TS vs using the band saw. I have a 12" Craftsman floor model band saw. I tried resawing using a 3/8" blade (red oak) as I thought a wider blade would provide more stiffness. However, it appeared a struggle and I turned to the TS. I'd be willing to try the band saw again - can anyone provide better advice, such as a different blade?

[Chris Padilla]

In my experience, a good blade is important but its width isn't nearly as critical. I have a BS that can take a 1 1/4" wide blade but I've done resawing with a 1/2" wide bimetal blade and have gotten great results. It was a Lenox Diemaster2, 6 tpi, bimetal, hook style, 1/2" wide. I don't know if they make this blade in 3/8" width but a quick check at their website will tell you.

I think 50% of the cut is the BS set up (perpendicular blade to table top, guides guiding well, drift set, solid fence or point fence, coplanar wheels, proper tension) and the other half is the blade, its sharpness, and tooth design. The other 50% ( ;) ) is experience resawing and understanding how your BS works doing it.

[Russ Sears]

Matt, I think you get the "Making do in 2008" award :D
I have to ask: did you make the toilet seat?

[Matt P]

Thanks everyone - For safety reasons and comfort-level, I decided to resaw using my benchtop 10" bandsaw. I bought a Woodslicer resaw blade, and my gosh, it worked really, really well. The stock Craftsman blades took forever to resaw, and burned. I never knew how much difference a blade could make! (Now if I only had a drum sander or planer to even out the widths, instead of using a belt sander...)

p.s. Russ - I didn't make the toilet seat! lol

[Curt Harms]

Thanks everyone - For safety reasons and comfort-level, I decided to resaw using my benchtop 10" bandsaw. I bought a Woodslicer resaw blade, and my gosh, it worked really, really well. The stock Craftsman blades took forever to resaw, and burned. I never knew how much difference a blade could make! (Now if I only had a drum sander or planer to even out the widths, instead of using a belt sander...)

p.s. Russ - I didn't make the toilet seat! lol

Isn't it amazing the difference a good blade can make?:) I had the same revelation when I first tried a Timberwolf. "Where have you been all my life?":D. There are several good bandsaw band manufacturers around but their products are not often found in home centers or typical suburban retail stores e.g. Sears.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

why not?
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[Peter Quinn]

Hey, I lived in a Manhattan studio apartment for 10 years and I got a 20" Agazzini BS in my studio apartment bathroom, along with a 12' SCMI slider and a shaper, so stop making excuses and get some tools man......

Ok, I was kidding about everything except the Manhattan studio apartment part. Yes you can resaw on a TS, use caution, possibly three or four passes (1/4 of the height, flip, 1/4, flip, etc) , use a good push block (piece of 3/4" plywood works well).

You may also want to try a hybrid method of TS and BS. Rip a 1" deep kerf on an edge, flip, rip another 1" deep kerf on the opposing edge. Resaw the remainder on the BS. Clean up with a planer. The TS kerfs give the BS a slot to follow and removes enough material to make the going easier.

Good luck, and how do you run a TS without calls from the neighbors?

[David Keller NC]

I appreciate the numerous posts concerning the safety of using the TS vs using the band saw. I have a 12" Craftsman floor model band saw. I tried resawing using a 3/8" blade (red oak) as I thought a wider blade would provide more stiffness. However, it appeared a struggle and I turned to the TS. I'd be willing to try the band saw again - can anyone provide better advice, such as a different blade?

Bob - Blade width is important. For a big, heavy bandsaw, one usually turns to as wide a blade as the saw will accomodate, as they will typically wander less than a narrower blade. However, on a small bandsaw, you want to do the opposite. The smaller bandsaw's issue is lack of power, and the amount of power it takes to drive the blade is affected by its width, how many teeth per inch it has, and the tooth configuration.

Even on my 2 HP Delta, I found that the motor bogged with a 1/2" hook-tooth 8 tpi blade. I then read an article a few years ago in FWW about making a "point fence" and using a much thinner, fewer teeth per inch, skip-tooth blade. Worked like a champ.

In the case of your craftsman, I'd go with either a 1/8" or 3/16" width blade, 4 tpi, skip tooth configuration. You then need to make a point fence - this can be as simple as cutting the edge of a board to a wedge shape, then mounting it to your existing fence so that the "point" of the wedge is just slightly forward of the teeth (by about 1/8"). You then need to either use one hand to force the bottom of the board against this fence, or rig a featherboard to do it for you. Naturally, the distance between the point of the fence and the blade is your width of cut.

In use, you carefully mark your board with a marking gauge, and use your other hand (your left for those of us that are right handed - the right hand is used to push the bottom of the workpiece against the point of the fence) to steer the board as it travels through the blade. Doing this effectively takes some practice, so don't try this on a nice piece of mahogany - ues a piece of scrap until you get the hang of it.

[glenn bradley]

In a recent Woodsmith, resawing on the table saw is the demonstrated method to produce the veneer for a leg. It is done in the two pass, flip the material manner of which you speak. I tried it on my contractor saw back-when and scared to doody out of myself. I have done it on my current, larger saw without incident but I also have gained some experience so that probably helps.